I understand the concept, but I guess I just wouldnt know how to go about doing it.
I know the two are unrelated, but I just wanted to make the car more modern.

Ok, I thought maybe you thought you needed to go below dash for the headlight relays. A couple hours, some wire, realys, solder and heatshrink tubing is all it takes.

I read the site and putting them under the hood would be a good idea. I might make this a winter project.

One day job. I'll be doing mine this winter as well, as part of re-wiring the entire underhood. I'll snap lots of pics.

Snap shots....ill help ya!! Ill bring the beer.

i see where hes coming from... the hood of a 4th gen camaro follows the lines of the headlights, the halos disrupt that flow. i dont like them myself

I also want to put in a set of better seats, and have them coverd in the same type fabric that the seats are now.

That can be arranged....

Good stuff. I am searching like mad on Nasty for several different topics. I see someone has put in LED lights in there dash,a nd thats EXACTLY how I want it to look!! Glad great minds think alike.
I deffinatly want ot do this relay mod, soundslike a good idea. Im also looking for a basic brake upgrade. Some guy said he did a C5 brake upgrade for 375 bucks? That is wicked cheap for some nice 13 inch brakes. I dont know if that includes calipers or whatever, but I would deffinatly love to do that. Any links to DYI brake articles?

There are so many threads on brakes I get dizzy.

Decide on what wheels you want to do and go from there.

Here are 90Z28 1LE rotors on mine:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...MG_2981_sm.jpg

Well im gunna keep the Rally's on there for a while.
Is that your car int hat pic? Sexy on the uppper a-arms.

Yeah, that is mine. You aren’t putting big brakes under 14” ralleys (or did you change to 15" old school ralleys?). If 14s, I have one here, when it’s all together I’ll see if the 12” rotor setup even fits. The 15s should be no issue, I think they offer more room than the 5-spoke Z28 wheels do.

I got those arms and tall lower ball joints from SC&C in PA. Now the garage floor is done I’ll be rolling her back in this weekend.

I have 15x8 Rally's, so Id like a nice 12 inch set up in the front, and go with a disk set up in the rear.

I’m not sold on the perfect rear disc setup for these cars w/15s. It’s the staggered shocks that seem to cause issues. Nothing is a true bolt-on.

* Late 2nd gen TA setups can work pretty good, but those calipers are often problematic (very similar to, maybe same as, the iron ones in 3rd gens). You have to use the e-brake all the time or they go bad fast. I actually have a whole late 2nd gen TA rear disc setup in the garage, still might resell it or use it in the 67. I retrofit an 85 TA rear & discs into my 82 without issue and it did stop way better, so I know they can be made to work well. But fighting those calipers is a PITA.

* The late 3rd / early 4th gen (LT1 cars, I’m told LS1 setups are too large for 15s) aluminum caliper setups can be made to work, but the staggered issues show up (and it can’t be from a 9-bolt). I think they use integral e-brakes. I’ve also seen attempts at using rear setups out of late model s10s & trailblazers. But the same issues come up with that, and a lot of people seem to think the shoe in hat e-brakes do not hold well. I have a 4 speed and my driveway is a hill, so I need a good e-brake. Same goes for many of the supposed bolt-on aftermarket kits. I think they only verify the kits fit the rears, not the actual cars.

And none of that gets into proper selection of master cyl & prop valves – it is all **** if the MC & PV are wrong. Plus if you use late model parts, then you get into line problems (bubble flares, etc.). Not insurmountable, just an added PITA. And your tires are still the limiting factors.

I plan full boat big brakes/tires/wheels someday, after the 67 is running most likely. Until then, I did the 12” upgrade in the front with Porterfield pads, and I am doing a complete rebuild of the rear drums, using Porterfield shoes. I kind of think she’ll stop pretty good. I couldn’t see buying a bunch of parts for small rear discs if I plan on replacing it all at a later date. I’d rather save for a 5-speed. Plus the LSx for the 67 won’t buy itself.

Well that kinda sucks now doesnt it? No easy bolt up kits...very lame. Well, Id probably go with a right drum set up, and then a solid disk set up in the front to get by for now.
But big things on the list this winter is shocks, springs, bushings, sway bars, and lighting. Maybe finding seats, but I want them coverd to match the rest of the interior.

More tough decisions. Stock ride hieght? Lowered? Rubber bushings? Yikes, it is hard to decide on these things.

Its pretty low right now, so I dont know what "stock hight" will give me. I might go lowerd, it might actualy be a little higher then it is right now.
I plan on going poly on the suspension bushings, but delalum bushings on the body mounts. Im looking to put in Bilstiens HD's all around, look to lower it 1-2 inches from what stock is, 1.25/1 inch sways, and that should do it for now. I was going to press in some poly's for the control arms, but I might just save up for a set of tubular uppers and lowers in the future. Big $$$$ though.

ls1 brakes work with 15's as long as the backspacing is right you have to grind some of the caliper down

i have 15x8 prostars on my ta

Sounds like mine - the rear springs are so beat that 'lowering springs' will likely raise my car. Sounds like the Hotchkiss setup is right up your alley, including the bilstiens valved just for them. Good sway bars out of the kit too. I'd like to get them, but they are out of my current budget and I have half decent sway bars.

Poly control arm bushings FTL. They bind and thus squeek. Poly has its use, but not on parts that pivot like that. Get the GW del-a-lums. Tubular LCAs are bling only - no gain, not even weight, in 2nd gens. I'd only consider them for coil-overs - claimed added strength at the mount. GW or Speedtech UCA are better upper arms- offer improved geometry. Many UCA do not. That is why I got the taller lower ball joint - it raises roll center, thus improving camber movement and less body roll.

GW's solid body bushings (no delrin there) are nice, a lot of guys get the ones that drop the body 1/2". I got the regular height ones.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...5_IMG_2272.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...2_IMG_2262.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...1_IMG_2254.jpg




Nice to know Mike - you mean rears? I doubt they would come close to fitting in my 5-spoke - they have deep drop centers. I know of other brakes that fit 15s that won't fit mine. I might have to bring a wheel to your house for a test fit. :)

What else comes in the Hotchkis set up? I belive its front and rear springs, sways, and the revalved bilstiens? Is there like a GP on them over at Nasty, or is it just a basic kit you get through summit?

Not that I know of, maybe try GP Superstore.