first off porposing is rocking back and forth, a car setup incorrect will do that, Shock deflection can be seen on the return to earth (FROM THE WHEELIE!), Bottom out and top out also.

Not saying it doesn't, but it doesn't happen 100 times an hour like driving over the road, unless you are at a really crappy track with pot holes, washboards and other imperfections. I'm not saying you CAN'T make it work with stiff shocks so why don't YOU read what WE are trying to say and not interpret it in a drag race application but in terms of a street car. You are going to create more heat and shock wear with high pressures to compensate for a softer spring. The shock is going to work harder to keep those issues from happening then it would with a regular spring rate and will cause the shock to wear out faster then a car with a street style suspension. I'm not trying to tell you it can't be done, I'm saying it isn't a cost effective, reliable way to set-up a daily driver for people on a budget who race 5 times a year. So don't sit there and get nasty with us because we don't like your idea, obviously you have a great set-up under your car that you like but the rest of us aren't neanderthals, there are other people here with alot of experience in setting up suuspensions and probably as much or more trial and error time as you so I for one, woulkd appreciate it if you would knock off the downtalking because we don't agree with you. If you want to discuss things discuss them, but there is no need to be all pissed off and defensive about. I'm not dismissing any of your ideas but just offering up MY opinion from MY research and MY experience and if anything you are dismissing the rest of us. Tim has valid points, I have valid points, Ian does and so do you. That is the whole point of putting up questions here is to get as much info from people who have had the experience and while I may not have "disected how a bump stops works" and may not know everything there is to know about suspension I certainly know the ins and outs for setting up an LS1 car for street/strip duty because I've been doing it for years and it is a little different then your lightweight 1st Gen race car. Noone is trying to undermine what you have accomplished or know but don't talk to me (or anyone else) like we are incompetent.

I don't need the word porpoise defined for me, And I am not talking, for the last time, about a drag launch. I am talking when he hits a bump in the rain and the weight comes off his front tires and crashes him into a tree. I also don't think unless he straps his car to a Saturn 5 rocket he will have to worry too much about his "Return to Earth" just yet, maybe after a few more mods.

I forgot about those Tim, those are nice bars, cheap,and easy to live with also. Just be careful if you buy them that they haven't been worn down by lack of bushing replacement.

TRue to the form a message board, any good information shared is rarely appreciated and oftened argued with by those with much less knowledge in the area.

I'm done arguing, i've been there and done that with not only my own ride, but i had the experience of working with one of the only teams in stock eliminator racing, campaining 3 late model F-bodies on a stock legal suspension, who did nothing but set national records. I didnt specifically set up those cars (that was another guys work), however i did spend quite a bit of time adjusting weight bias and shock settings in the cars.

A suspension is a suspension, they can be related from one to another, especially when talking about street/strip rear wheel drive, heavy cars.

My personal car, which i've done extensive testing with, including $2500 in different sets of shocks, 4 sets of coil springs, 3 sets of leaf springs, and 3 types of bushings, and 2 styles of rear suspension traction systems

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...ba/blaunch.jpg

Adjusted the ballast, and front shocks numerous times, as we changed drivers and classes multiple times, along with going over the suspension setup with the guy who set it up.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...a/P4164802.jpg

Solved the wild bounce problem in this car, along with adjusting the wheelie to the current height. It now does 3' wheelies and lands with 1 solo, even bounce, and settles.

http://www.dragracecentral.com/stori...0624-00283.JPG

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...stockergif.gif

I designed all aspects and built all aspects of this frame from a completely clean sheet of paper.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...a/P1011419.jpg

Built this car from the ground up, i'm currently in the sheetmetal fab stage of it.

http://www.iwantthatmusclecar.com/images/78mal40.jpg

Your right....i dont know ANYTHING about suspensions ;)

:scratch:

do you have a reading comprehension problem? never once did anyone say you didnt know what you were talking about. never once did we discredit you of your accomplishments. We only stated that for this persons application, it would be wise to stay away from such a drastic setup.

Let's see...race car, race car, race car, race car......No one is questioning you can build an awesome race suspension and have alot of knowledge, we just don't agree it is applicable in this case. You gave alot of very good information on race suspensions and it IS appreciated to have input like that. But setting up a 60/70's car for drag racing isn't the same as setting up a modern street strip car. The basic principles are the same yes but there are alot of other considerations you need for a daily driver then wheels up drag racing action. That's all we are trying to say. Don't be so quick to Dismiss US because all I did at our shop is work on modern day F-bodies. I took a 3800# car into the 11's (1.53 was my best 60 foot BTW, although my best run cam with a 1.6 something), and I am not the best shifter in the world either, with only 367RWH so maybe I know a little something about putting power to the ground in a 4th Gen F-body.

bmf, extremely childish way to try to respond. editing out the useful information in your other posts, putting up a bunch of pics of race cars and claiming that no one other than you could possibly know anything, then saying you are leaving. that is an absolutely pathetic way to try to make or defend a point.

Everyones telling me i'm wrong, why keep in the info up there?

:popcorn:

:horse: So, Ron have you decided what you want to do yet?

information is always useful, even if the application is in question. i can't tell you the number of times i have gone back and reread information in threads, even if it was information that was slightly off topic. hell, that is how we found the 4spd for jon's chevelle.
if you have tech information to share, do it. if not everyone agrees or sees your view of the application in question, so what. no one is persoanlly attacking you, the work you do, or your car.

hey gang, lets get everyone back on topic and help ron out. there is no need to drag personal information and outside situations into this.

ron, my suggestion stands at getting V6 springs. teh rate is compliant enough to help you launch and have your adjustable shocks be a good control of movement, and will still be firm enough to give you pretty good handling and keep the car safe under daily road conditions.

ooops :)

i adjusted my rear shocks to 4 instead of 8 so this way it wont bounce like it did in my latest atco videos. and its hooking 10x better on the street after that adjustment.

right now, my suspension is weird, its a 3 link, like a really short ladder bar setup. (figured i'd try it out) i dont rely on weight transfer- However, when the time comes to change it back to a normal person, torque arm suspension.
After some thought, and seeing that i cant have the best of both worlds, im gonna ditch the eibach idea and go with the V6 spring idea. My adjustable shocks and struts are working pretty darn good. between my 8way adjustables, and the V6 springs, it should be good enough for daily driving and track time.

if i can get my transmission in my car before the end of the season, i think i will cut 1.7 60's with my weird suspension and DR's. i adjusted my shocks and my 4 degrees of knock retard is gone.

To give you an idea on why i think i can cut 1.7's- i cut a 1.83 with this suspension, on street tires. now i have my intake and drag radials.

Lock the thread before it gets even uglier!!!!

11s :w00t:

If you could cut a 1.83 before, you should have no problem getting low 1.7s and *maybe* 1.6s out of the car now (as long as you can get decent track conditions).

- Justin