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- - How to prevent Spun bearings... (http://www.njfboa.org/forums/showthread.php?t=25833)

Came across this link, what do you guys think?

http://www.ellweinengines.com/Ellwei...Components.htm

Quote:

Kit #EE355, The Forged piston/rod 355-LT1 Rebuild Kit $1190
2 kits in stock.

The kit is designed for you to build your own 355LT1 utilizing your stock GM 350 crank. The kit features premium forged Mahle pistons/rings/pins/locks, SCAT 4340 forged I-beam rods with 7/16" rod bolts, Mahle/GM main and rod bearings, full LT1 Rebuild gasket Kit as shown above, (minus the stock Mahle rings)

Have your machine shop bore and plateau hone your stock block to 4.030, align hone the mains, square deck the block to 9.010", install cam bearings and oil galley and core plugs. Also have your balance shop balance your stock crank for the SCAT rods and Mahle power pack.

The -5cc flat top Mahle piston would give about 11.8:1 static compression ratio if using a 54cc chamber head with .029" B-body head gasket and piston in the hole 0.010". If the cylinder head combustion chamber is 58cc then static compression ratio would be 11.2:1 .

The 355 kit features the following parts.
Mahle piston "PowerPak" #SBC250030F05 (3.48 stroke, 6.000" rod, 4.030 bore)
The Mahle PowerPak features graphal coated forged flat top pistons, 1.5mm, 1.5mm, 3.0mm plasma moly file fit rings, F-1 style round wire locks and piston pins.
SCAT 6.000" 4340 forged I-beam rods with 7/16" cap screw style rod bolts #2ICR-6000-7/16
[+ $280 for USA Howard's Forged Sport rods #SP6000]
Mahle main and rod bearings
GM/Cloyes oversized stock crank timing sprocket
GM/Cloyes stock timing chain
Victor Reinz or GM B-body head gasket, (.026" or .029" compressed thickness respectively)
Head bolt kit
Felpro printoseal intake manifold gasket set
All other gaskets to complete engine rebuild

Hey Alex, I spoke to my buddy John last night. He said he would get into building a motor for you, but time will be an issue. He is in the middle of doing lots of cylinder head and intake manifold development for the shop, in particular for All Pontiac. Last year they released a killer block, heads and intake for the Pontiacs, and he is doing all of the R&D, programming and running of the CNC mill down there. If you want something done in the next coupe of months, I don’t think he will be the guy. Have you spoken to Stage 1 to see who they use or recommend?

alex- i thought you spun both bearings due to faulty oil pumps? i remember you saying something about a broken gear/incorrectly installed something-or-another the first time, and the second time being a faulty oil pump?

That's not a bad package for an economic build, rods and piston are good choices. The stock crank should hold up no problem. REDZ has a fresh 355 block in the for sale section for $325 that looks to be what you need? Add an oil pump and pan and you should have all the pieces.

Seems Moroso has come out with a pan that cost less then the Canton. I'll see if I can find the part number. And check on options for the oil pump.

Tune is for 6400 RPMs and it should make for a good engine that safely makes in the 360-380 RWHP range.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pampered-Z (Post 344209)

Thank you for the offer, that is exactly how I was taught to do it. I didn't want to go into full detail with Alex until I actually have an idea of things he may not think of. I've posted on a LT1 board to have the engine builders tell me if it might be an issue. the 306 cam on a stock LT1 block, even with milled heads have plenty of clearance, but the LT4 piston and zero deck I haven't played with. I hate to have Alex put the engine together and have it go bad! A zero desk LT4 block should be a -4 flat top, so if I do the calculations right with 54cc heads and the felpro should be real ner 11,8:1 that's high for pump gas. With the drop in desk and those gaskets the intake will probably also need to be milled to match the ports back up.

This is why I'm thinking it might be cheaper to take one of his blocks and build it with something like a scat forged 355 kit would be better in the long run and be more reliable and maybe less money then the LT4.

something to keep in mind i am not a fan of zero decks you cant fix a blown head gasket correctly and to square the deck is also eliminated - the other issue most dont think about is when the deck is cut to the max you also change the angle that the valve approaches the pocket ( its going down ) causing a side clearence problem ( valve to out side edge of piston - and in some extreem cases the flat shelf on the top of the intake valve pocket becomes the issue ) - just something to keep in mind - goood luck with it - jz

How much would I be looking at to have a motor machined to accept the 355 kit?