snout? the out side of the hole? errrrrrr it wouldve just slid off,

I know, i said the shortblock all together meaning, its a shortblock now.

how do I get the crank hole fixed?

so no one get this messed up again(i cant be the only one) heres what i did, I duct taped a old lifter to the crank and then used the puller, worked perfectly, what size helicoil should I get? how much do they cost and where can i get them?

STOP

Wait for someone who knows what they are doing to help you. A simple tap might fix it up. Hasn't Paul been helping you? I guarantee he knows what to do.

If you rush this and screw your crank up you will be pissed.

Fixed.

And agreed. Find someone who knows how to do it properly or you can/will make it worse.

Depends on how bad the threads are....you may be able to just use a tap and die set to clean the threads up (I would advise that you have it done by a professional, or at least someone with plenty of experience).

If they are bad enough, then the crank is prolly junk. You can't exactly helicoil your crank or something like that.

- Justin

crank threads are at least 3/4 of an inch long its a 7/16 fine thread and chasing it will fix the end you messed up - a little blue lock tight will retain it just fine - note before they had threads in the end the balancer was just pressed on and and lock tight was not invented yet - yep 327 vetts had a problem with them falling off -- so it does not need a Helli coil and the cranks metal ( cast ) steel is not the best for a cut thread the end is a rolled thread that is why you will need blue ( NOT RED ) lock tight because when you - re tap the threads the pitch depth will change and the bolt will feel a little on the loose side -- just have some one help you so it does not become a complete disaster -- jz

the tap went in fine, but the stock bolt wouldn't go in, I got a new bolt from the auto parts store but it looked different and didn't want to go in either, But One bolt I had went in I just need to get a right balancer bolt and it should go in. If not Ill use the bolt that fits in just a shorter version. I'm sure Hardcorez28 can explain what was happening better then me.

Something is still funny with either the hole or the balancer bolt. The beginning of the threads were smooshed in from pressing against them with the pulley puller but I was able to clean them up with a tap. The "balancer bolt" was just a Grade 8 hardware store bolt and still won't go in straight even after I chased it with a dye. I've suggested that he get an actual balancer bolt and see where that leaves him. If it still doesn't want to go in I'm going to run back over there for him one night and use a better quality tap....the one I had was from an offshore brand set and a good one might be slightly larger and clean the threads better.

i dont want to say this -- but -- if its not a chevy crank it might be a china thread -- but i think its an OEM chevy unit from the pictures i have seen -- i can mail you a correct bolt and an american tap you can keep if need be send me a PM - about address -- jz

Definitely not a metric tap. The 7/16 x 20 went in very easy once I got the first two or three threads straightened out.

What If I used the bolt I had that worked, locktighted it. and used washers so its the perfect size.

THis is kinda an important bolt, don't wanna half-*** it.