No, a bottle jack won't be high enough or safe enough. You need a solid floor jack and may even need a block of wood for the extra height. Are the headers emission's headers? They can be a bit tougher to install and may require even more height. It is highly recommended to replace the motor mounts while you have the exhaust out of the way. And you may want to get some heat wrap to put around the fuel lines for added protection, the y-pipe can be a little close.

Bottle jack to move the engine up and down once the car is on stands.

a flat hydraulic floor jack with a block of wood under the oil pan would work better

.... i wouldnt recomend the motor mounts . because you need to have the riviting tool , or be a damn good welder to make sure it stays. from what me and my friends expierienced bolting the mounts in instead of the using the rivits wont allow you to fit properly not to mention the flex / steady vibration actuallys cause the bolts holding the mounts in to loosen. but yeah if you need anyhelp with anything just give a post. like i said just disconect the steering knuckle 2 bolts and a good whack with a hammer. and take out your starter and you should be fine. and dont forget change those plugs/wires.

So i got started today at around 3:00 and only had a few hours to work. The bolt removal was going fine, until i needed to remove the driver side Cat. I soaked the hell out of those screws this weekend and they would not budge. So i went the barbarian route and started cutting them. One actually broke so that was easy, but the second one is a bitch. i haven't even ventured to the third , which is pretty much buried in the engine bay. You guys weren't kidding. I only just started and my patients are wearing thin. I think i do need that bottle of jack (daniels) you guys spoke of earlier. I'm getting up early tomorrow and will have a full day of cursing and yellling, so i will keep you informed. Thanks for all the help so far.

I would chance them loosening than having to listen to my brand new headers smack the floor every time you nail it.

So if i dont install motor mounts, the headers are going to smack the floor when hitting the gas? That doesn't sound like fun....

Its quite a good possibility that they will. I did my mounts with the supplied bolts/nuts and they have yet to fall apart....

where do you live? there might be someone local that can help you

i live in east hanover. i ran into a pretty big problem in my eyes. the last bolt for the drivers manifold is stripped at the head. i am at a loss what to do with it. any suggestions?

Well.

How far did it snap? Enough so when the manifold is off, you can grab it with vise grips and turn it out?

Or snapped flush with the head? In which case you need to drill it out, and worst case, helicoil it.

Depending on which one you snapped, those options are going to be tough.

Yea just helicoil it if you cant get it out. Helicoil are stronger than regular threads. thats what they use on airplanes. so dont worry if you have too. just remeber buy the right helicoil you only have 1 shot with it.

How would he helicoil it with the snapped bolt still in there?

oh geez i prolly confused the hell outta the guy. What i mean to say is if you cant get the bolt out dont worry drill it out and re-thread and then heli-coil. Some times i forget that this is the internet and you have to explain every little thing on here. :p

Don't want him to get confused. Already sucks as it is.

Haha like i said i forget sometimes. But hey everyone is green at one point. At least hes still trying.

he isn't ****ed yet. as long as the manifold comes off he should be ok. the outer bolts use the outermost bolt holes in the heads. almost all aftermarket headers use the bolt holes closer to the exhaust ports. so as long as he can get the manifold off he will be ok. might have to grind the bolt flush with the head though.

loctite the motor mount clamshell bolts or get stock rubber replacements and not worry about it. they are pricey oem style though.

sorry for the confusion. the bolt snapped just above the driver side cat on the flanges holding the pipes together. the manifold bolt head got rounded thats all. it also just happens to be the last bolt in the driver side manifold. so i pb'ed it all day today and bought http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952060000P a damaged bolt remover. i hope this works. if not i am at a loss. the passenger side went much smoother so far, famous last words. i only have to two rear bolts closer to the rear of the engine. so i am about 7 hours into the project and nothing removed. is that normal or am i a snail?

Well if its just on the connection between the Y pipe and manifold, who cares? If the Y can come off, don't worry about it.

sawzall the exhaust off and toss the stock manifold and flanges in the garage

yeah i did that. i love the saw zall.

ohhhhhhhhhh

well sawzall's are amazing :)

one question, since these are not the emmissions headers, do i still need the air pump?

nope toss that and the egr to the side if it doesnt have provisions for it. :nod:

just make sure you weld a bolt into the egr plate , or buy a block off plate for the back of the manifold. Or your car will run like dookey.