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-   -   3.73's went in today! (http://www.njfboa.org/forums/showthread.php?t=48799)

V 02-25-2010 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blacdout96 (Post 684474)
besides welding the tubes, could gussets help strengthen the tubes in any way, or would it be a waste of time?

this is also in interesting idea...
http://www.lpwracing.com/p_axletubebrace.asp

i may try to extend the life on my 10 bolt, considering now i have 2 4th gens in need of strong rears and ill only cough up the cash for one right now.

BonzoHansen 02-25-2010 05:37 PM

a good rear cover that helps keep the dif in place and reduce housing deflection is helpful.

deadtrend1 02-25-2010 06:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BonzoHansen (Post 684625)
a good rear cover that helps keep the dif in place and reduce housing deflection is helpful.

and the main cap stud kit helps too. But really, its all just a bandaid.

NastyEllEssWon 02-25-2010 08:38 PM

go to ls1tech and search 10 bolt rear. you'll see plenty of carnage from v6 to v8 to big boost turbo motors. the 10 bolt rear isnt even worth modding anymore with all the different rear options they have out there. swapping out the 10 bolt is the first mod anyone should do if building a fbody. even before touching the exhaust.

MonmouthCtyAntz 02-26-2010 08:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NastyEllEssWon (Post 684728)
swapping out the 10 bolt is the first mod anyone should do if building a fbody. even before touching the exhaust.

I wouldnt go that far...theres plently of guys out there running heads/cam setups w/ no problems w/ the stock 10 bolt..

Frosty 02-26-2010 01:48 PM

To sum up 3rdgen/4thgen 10-bolts: No matter how much you polish a turd, it's still a turd.

Sure, people have put power through them and have been lucky...doesn't mean they're durable. I've had the 2 10bolts I've owned last...one had no power(86 LB) and my '00 Z28...never ran anything stickier than street tires.

The rear is junk, plain and simple. Some people have had luck with them but when a stock V6 on street tires can break them there's something wrong.

I'll stick with my 3rdgen 9-bolt until it breaks, then it's 12-bolt time.

Slow-V6 02-26-2010 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NastyEllEssWon (Post 684728)
swapping out the 10 bolt is the first mod anyone should do if building a fbody. even before touching the exhaust.

If you plan on running your car at the track. If you just want to have a street car then a 10 bolt will hold up for a little bit. But the 1st time you go to the track you better have your AAA membership on hand.

Slow-V6 02-26-2010 02:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frosty (Post 684851)

The rear is junk, plain and simple. Some people have had luck with them but when a stock V6 on street tires can break them there's something wrong.

My V6 had headers, full exhaust, and lid when I broke my first Rear. My car was making 186rwhp and 215rwtq!!

LTb1ow 02-26-2010 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Slow-V6 (Post 684871)
My V6 had headers, full exhaust, and lid when I broke my first Rear. My car was making 186rwhp and 215rwtq!!

Annnnd my heads/cam slowmobile has yet to break my ten bolt. Luck of teh draw I suppose.

Slow-V6 02-26-2010 11:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LTs1ow (Post 684888)
Annnnd my heads/cam slowmobile has yet to break my ten bolt. Luck of teh draw I suppose.

I would go knock on some wood after saying that!!

NastyEllEssWon 02-27-2010 12:46 AM

the a4 doesnt put as much violent force on the rear as the manuals do. honestly if you plan to mod your car, youre probably going to be doing at least a little bit of spirited driving....and whats spirited driving without a few low end blasts :lol:



honestly if youre going to mod a car i stand firm in belief that you weed out any weak parts before you go adding any power. build from the rear forwards.

Blacdout96 02-27-2010 07:22 AM

I'm suprise there isnt any alternative GM rear options, like using an 8.5 rear form a second gen/large truck, or a 10.5 from a suburban or something.

MyFirstZ 02-27-2010 10:48 AM

i know its just a matter of time til my ten bolt goes. I know that i will not be repairing it either. Moving right on up to the 12

B4C 02-27-2010 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MyFirstZ (Post 685052)
i know its just a matter of time til my ten bolt goes. I know that i will not be repairing it either. Moving right on up to the 12

Im pretty shure I broke my 12 bolt...what kind of numbers are you putting down.

Tru2Chevy 02-27-2010 05:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blacdout96 (Post 685027)
I'm suprise there isnt any alternative GM rear options, like using an 8.5 rear form a second gen/large truck, or a 10.5 from a suburban or something.

As stated before, the torque arm mount is the limiting factor. It's relatively easy to change shock mounts and spring perches on an axle, but the torque arm mount is cast into the housing, and adding one to a rear that doesn't have one is no simple task.

- Justin

WildBillyT 02-28-2010 09:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tru2Chevy (Post 685160)
As stated before, the torque arm mount is the limiting factor. It's relatively easy to change shock mounts and spring perches on an axle, but the torque arm mount is cast into the housing, and adding one to a rear that doesn't have one is no simple task.

- Justin

Plus you get into width issues.

NastyEllEssWon 02-28-2010 10:12 AM

after being around and seeing all the 12 bolts that people have trashed and looking under the rear of some serious machines at the track and various car shows ive come to believe that when buying a rear and spending that type of cash on a rear you might as well spend the few extra and get the 9'' instead of the 12 bolt...theres also a dana rear thats supposed to be just as strong, maybe stronger....i think its the s60 but i dont have anything to offer on it beings im not familiar with it.....theres a guy on here that has one in his vert lt1...i think his name is blackbird something

WildBillyT 02-28-2010 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NastyEllEssWon (Post 685261)
after being around and seeing all the 12 bolts that people have trashed and looking under the rear of some serious machines at the track and various car shows ive come to believe that when buying a rear and spending that type of cash on a rear you might as well spend the few extra and get the 9'' instead of the 12 bolt...theres also a dana rear thats supposed to be just as strong, maybe stronger....i think its the s60 but i dont have anything to offer on it beings im not familiar with it.....theres a guy on here that has one in his vert lt1...i think his name is blackbird something

You can break any of the rears if the situation arises. Josh broke two 9" rears.

Blackbird has an S60, as does Featherburner.

Slow-V6 03-01-2010 08:39 AM

But they all will last longer then a 10 bolt!!

BonzoHansen 03-01-2010 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tru2Chevy (Post 685160)
As stated before, the torque arm mount is the limiting factor. It's relatively easy to change shock mounts and spring perches on an axle, but the torque arm mount is cast into the housing, and adding one to a rear that doesn't have one is no simple task.

- Justin

Quote:

Originally Posted by WildBillyT (Post 685243)
Plus you get into width issues.

All of which you can get around, but it would be cheaper just to buy the right rear that is made to fit.

sweetbmxrider 03-01-2010 10:38 AM

fab 9 is another option :)

BonzoHansen 03-01-2010 10:39 AM

A 9" by another name.

sweetbmxrider 03-01-2010 10:54 AM

plus steroids. they ain't no joke and can take some rpm from a standstill.

JSPERFORMANCE 03-02-2010 08:27 AM

Fab 9 is just a housing fabricated from plate steel instead of two stamped housings welded together. It still uses the same ol 9" center chunk which is what breaks usually. Nothing is "bullet proof" but any of the aftermarket rears will be sufficient for the abuse 99% of owners can throw at them.

Mark42 03-04-2010 10:15 AM

Ok, here is the fix for the noisy Summit Racing gears:




Get a magnaflow cat back system. It will drown out any other sounds.


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