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- - any oil recomendations?? (http://www.njfboa.org/forums/showthread.php?t=51091)

Quote:

Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider (Post 700453)

i would run what the builders said, they built the motor.

+1 listen to your builder. not listening to them can be an expensive lesson to learn... ask me how i know

There are huge differences between synthetic oils.
A true Group IV base stock is the only real synthetic oil.
The "sythetic" oils you get from Valvoline, Penz, Castrol, etc etc are highly moddified Group III stock, which is still dino oil.

You have 4 grades of oil. Most oil you buy from the big oil companies are Group III. Each company puts in different additive packages depending on its need (high milage, blends, high/low zinc)

Amsoil its a true group IV. RP used to be, but I believe due to changing up its formula to sell in retail markets (read: lower costs) that they went with a Group III.
The German Castrol Syntec is a true Group IV synthetic, but its only sold here in 0w30.

Mobil 1 and RP used to or still sell a Group IV synthetic oil but like it was said, due to the fact that it wanted retail sales, it reformulated its stuff.

As for what you should use, Mobil 1 has never let me down and I have always heard good things of Amsoil. For a while I was using Valvoline for the old Caprice, but for the Malibu Ive switched to the German Castrol.

I find it just as worth it as much as or more so to put a good oil in a daily just because they have a less stressful job and can have their changes extended. Thus saving even more money. plus they protect better all the while.

Stop and go traffic is pretty harsh.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigAls87Z28 (Post 700569)

Stop and go traffic is pretty harsh.

not nearly as harsh as stop and go drag racing.

what about group V oils?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Syzygy (Post 700577)

not nearly as harsh as stop and go drag racing.

Ehhhh...

Depending on the car, lets say a drag racer. You drive anywhere from 8-13 sec down a straight line, WOT.
13 sec with the majority of it at high RPM, say 6500rpm for a 13 sec car.

Factor in that I am driving 20 mins a day, one way, in a varried range from idle to 3k rpm...

Stop and go is very rough for your engine.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider (Post 700591)

what about group V oils?

jaggasss

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil

Quote:

Synthetic oil and synthetic blends

Synthetic lubricants were first synthesized, or man-made, in significant quantities as replacements for mineral lubricants (and fuels) by German scientists in the late 1930s and early 1940s because of their lack of sufficient quantities of crude for their (primarily military) needs. A significant factor in its gain in popularity was the ability of synthetic-based lubricants to remain fluid in the sub-zero temperatures of the Eastern front in wintertime, temperatures which caused petroleum-based lubricants to solidify due to their higher wax content. The use of synthetic lubricants widened through the 1950s and 1960s due to a property at the other end of the temperature spectrum, the ability to lubricate aviation engines at temperatures that caused mineral-based lubricants to break down. In the mid 1970s, synthetic motor oils were formulated and commercially applied for the first time in automotive applications. The same SAE system for designating motor oil viscosity also applies to synthetic oils.

Instead of making motor oil with the conventional petroleum base, "true" synthetic oil base stocks are artificially synthesized. Synthetic oils are derived from either Group III mineral base oils, Group IV, or Group V non-mineral bases. True synthetics include classes of lubricants like synthetic esters as well as "others" like GTL (Methane Gas-to-Liquid) (Group V) and polyalpha-olefins (Group IV). Higher purity and therefore better property control theoretically means synthetic oil has good mechanical properties at extremes of high and low temperatures. The molecules are made large and "soft" enough to retain good viscosity at higher temperatures, yet branched molecular structures interfere with solidification and therefore allow flow at lower temperatures. Thus, although the viscosity still decreases as temperature increases, these synthetic motor oils have a much improved viscosity index over the traditional petroleum base. Their specially designed properties allow a wider temperature range at higher and lower temperatures and often include a lower pour point. With their improved viscosity index, true synthetic oils need little or no viscosity index improvers, which are the oil components most vulnerable to thermal and mechanical degradation as the oil ages, and thus they do not degrade as quickly as traditional motor oils. However, they still fill up with particulate matter, although at a lower rate compared to conventional oils, and the oil filter still fills and clogs up over time. So, periodic oil and filter changes should still be done with synthetic oil; but some synthetic oil suppliers suggest that the intervals between oil changes can be longer, sometimes as long as 16,000-24,000 km (10,000–15,000 mi).

With improved efficiency, synthetic lubricants are designed to make wear and tear on gears far less than with petroleum-based lubricants, reduce the incidence of oil oxidation and sludge formation, and allow for "long life" extended drain intervals. Today, synthetic lubricants are available for use in modern automobiles on nearly all lubricated components, potentially with superior performance and longevity as compared to non-synthetic alternatives. Some tests[citation needed] have shown that fully synthetic oil is superior to conventional oil in many respects, providing better engine protection, performance, and better flow in cold starts than petroleum-based motor oil.

watch your ss's, PAL

not a fan of royal purple i used it once and didnt hold up as well as the mobil 1 usually does. i hear awesome things about amsoil though. i use m1 in performance cars and mobil clean 5k in the daily drivers.

I use Pennz Plat in my Camaro and Denali with the K&N 2006 Long Filter. I have no complaints and they seem to be doing a good job. I actually have better and more consistent oil pressue in the Camaro using the Penn since switching from Mobil 1.

I use Pennzoil Platinum in the Camaro, it always seems to be the one that least breaks down for me.

well based on what i learned in this thread (thanks for all the info guys). and iv done some of my own research, im going to run Amsoil. Mainly because i couldn't find one bad review on the stuff and all the oil tests iv researched, amsoil comes in first place in wear protection and lack of break down. My next question is that there is two different oils offered in 5w30 from them, they have a "100% synthetic oil" and then a "XL oil" does anybody know the differences? i would figure to go with the 100% stuff. keep in mind this thing will probably wont have the oil changed all the time like a DD would so i dont mind the extra cash.

the XL is their standard synthetic.. The other stuff is their "extended drain" stuff. I wouldnt push either of them past 3000 or one season but if you want a little better additive package then go for the 100% stuff. Either will suit your needs just fine..

also is a standard wix filter good to use with amsoil... thats what filter im using now (napa select is made by wix)

both are group 4 full sythetics though, right? Josh do you ship this stuff?

the 100% means everything in it is synthetic base and additives where the XL has some dino based ingredients in the additive pack.. The Napa Gold is the standard Wix filter not the select.. We can ship but I do not accept credit cards as of now..

WTF this whole thread and no one said nothing about Brad Penn come on www.bradpennracing.com

my grandfather been running this for years and it's the best stuff i think

brad penn is very good stuff but not synthetic.. In fact we use their break in oil (or Gibbs) depends on the engine..

ok napa gold then is what im using... that filter will filter this oil well?? ok well not taking a card prob wont help me... you dont do like a paypal or something ( i can get it somewhere locally but since your a sponsor id give you the business)

Cash or check... Gotta keep the prices down somehow..

did you check with your builders to see what weight you should be running? they did set the bearing clearances. just looking out for you....r motor :twisted:

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSPERFORMANCE (Post 701439)

Cash or check... Gotta keep the prices down somehow..

i hear that

well... paypal comes out of my checking... im just saying once you get the check in the mail and then mail it out its going to be to long for me... paypal is like instant...

yea adam they told me any 5w30 full synthetic oil will work fine... the motor isnt that crazy its just my baby so i want to run the best i can in it

i've seen and heard alot of good about Royal Purple, but its expensive lol im planning on using it whenever i need an oil change and just so happen to have extra money, which isnt often, so its pennzoil or whatever synth special Advance is having.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider (Post 700453)

i would run what the builders said, they built the motor.

A lot of guys run 5-30 in their V6. I still use 10-30 because that is what the manual says. I gotta believe the manufacturer before anyone else as to what to use.