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To the heart of the matter, it is echoed in books like Herb Adams' Chassis Engineering. It's all about the bind, and to a much lesser degree the way it wears. WBT I bet your local library has a copy, it's a terrific book. That said, a poly with a steel insert that is greasable at the pivot point is different from a pure poly bushing.
IMO poly is a step between OE rubber and solid racecar type stuff. With the advent of solid stuff with delrin inserts for a street car you get much closer to the best of both worlds, without the inherent noise and wear issue of actual bearings that are not weathertight. For a pure street car a higher durometer solid rubber bushing is likely an excellent, perhaps cheaper, upgrade. |
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Yeah, I remember reading that when I was putting together the 72's suspension.
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Over time and under constant pressure a poly bushing CAN cold flow, but it isnt something that you are going to notice in a few years.
I pulled the poly leaf pads out of the 73 a few weeks ago and they had cold flowed enough that they wouldnt go back in nice when I pulled the slapper bars off, I had to put the new ones in that I got with the "U" bolts for the rear. Josh is completely correct though, for the money a stock rubber bushing isnt worth the time or effort when you can get new, stronger, longer lasting arms inexpensively. If someone is only daily driving a vehicle and doesnt care about performance at all that driver is NEVER going to notice the minimal amount of bind created by the stiffer poly bushing. Hell I bought all the stuff and put my own LCA's together for around $125. They are on car adjustable and are infinately rebuildable, no brainer |
Is it worth it to replace the front lower/upper A arm bushings with Moog stuff if they are coming off anyway?
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In my opinion.. No. But I like my cars to look as nice on the bottom as they do on the top.. Plus if its off already why not put something better back on?
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