everything with the heads will be figured out by monday hopefully, there going to Cerrellis friday

1. choose a cam based on the head flow, and what intake you want to run
2. choose head gaskets based on the cam clearance and chamber volume for target dcr
3. lock it the **** up

sooo


Cam
Headgaskets
10s?


is that what you did ?

Nah, some HVAC and hood blessed by Ron might get you mid 11s.

What trans and converter do you plan on running?

Performabuilt Level 2 4L60e, 3200 Street Fighter

Needs moar verter

and i cant even do the HVAC, the T/A bumper is a wall.

affirmative, couldnt agree more

Get a good stall, don't be a first rodeo.

What he said. I hear 3600 is an awesome mix between street/strip performance but you can get buy with a 4000 too. Did you hear my car run at Pete and Elda's? The idle is a little choppy but still very stockish. I'd definitely recommend the TSP Torquer V.2 or possibly the V.3. And if you saw my callout thread, I still get good gas mileage on the hwy, which might be somewhat important to you if you daily it a lot.

3200 street fighter. LULZ bro.

4200 yank, nothing short of 4000.

im just little scurred of the drivabilty of the bigger than 3200 stall. i dont want anything loose and sloppy. id hate to have to rev it to hell to get it to move. but wheel see, ill worry about that when the motors done.

nahh i didnt get a chance to hear your car, but MPG isnt "that" importantant... the ride to work is 1.5 miles and it stays home others than weekends.

I have a 3600 and my car moves like it was stock. The more throttle you give, the more it slips. If you floor it, it revs to hell and makes you go fast. If you gingerly gas it, you smile and such. If you crawl, you idle.

hmm... looks like a bigger verter may be thrown at the list of parts not too. im gunna be broke !

in4nextbreakdown.

Ask Kirk his feelings on LT1 sized torque converters in cammed LS1s.

Don't be a puss. My 4k drove fine until you nailed it.

to "flashy" of a throttle is not good for drifting thou.

Do you want me to slap you now, or save it for later?

ill take it now.

a 3200 streetfighter? you shoud just stay with the LT1 and bolt ons.

okok, a converter change is deffinatly in my head now.

but anyway, thats for another thread.

id like to keep this thread legit so my engine gets done the right way

Do Not Run This Converter!

It is the *biggest* POS in the entire universe. Save your pennies and buy a Yank, a Vigilante, or some other name brand converter. I had one of them. It's a 6 cylinder converter with an adapter ring welded onto it, the lockup clutch is too small, and will slip eventually dumping clutch material throughout your trans, necessitating a rebuild.

Also, it sucks. No hit on the bottom and too much slip on top. All in all, you get what you pay for, except buying this converter is like paying someone to punch you in the dick.

ive been reading up on them after hearing all the negativity lol

but like i said prior, converter, gear, rear end and stuff will be in a seperate build thread farther down the road

Unless you like ATF, doing the verter with the engine/trans out of car is the best time to do it. :lol:

i know lol you of any one should know how many times ive had to do a trans :facepalm:

right now all my concentration is on the motor. getting it 100% assembled and ready to go, and once its at the point it will sit on the stand in my shop.... forever prob.

Honestly, you'll get the biggest seat of the pants gain from the converter. I'm running full bolt-ons, a 3.42 rear, and a Yank SS3600. Tuned it myself. Took the car from a 12.90 to a 12.32 on some old-ass drag radials... And I'm convinced there's more in it. I ran out of track time due to the non-existent winter we had.

If you're budget limited, do a cam and a converter. Tuned right on sticky tires will put you in the 11's.