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All i got from this thread is::
-you have 2k to spend -are driving a piss load of miles to commute -Want to get into a program that requires a decent amt of study time and almost perfect attendance=less time to work on a modded car -hrs are cut back at work..less $ to spend on gas my 2 cents: -Go to e/town this weekend, pick up a used catback and buy a cold air system off ebay (together can probably spend $500) -Buy a used jeep cherokee (4wd for livig up in the sticks or honda for winter commuting to save gas)..keep the bird stock and enjoy it for the next 10 months..then get out, make bank and we will have this convo in a year and your budget will be 10k |
you can always do what the ricer guys do "put a chip in it" J/K .... start out and work in man. Either start with air going in or exhaust air coming out. You would be surprised with doing gears how much you wake up that lt1. I put 4.11 in mine M6 and it was a completely different car.
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yea, i was just implying that it was a 4l60, without the "e". it still has a TV cable to the trans like the 700r4s had.
I had a 93 TA back in the 2002 era. (had about 45 f-bodies to date) I will soon be parting out a 94 Trans am so if you're looking for parts and so forth, keep watching the classifieds(give me a week or two) |
Why not gears? Put some 4.11s in it and that will be the biggest "in the pants feel"
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If you want to spend 2k and the budget dries up after that, and you insist on modding this car, I would reccomend ignoring all power mods for now.
Panhard, lca's, subframe connectors, new shocks and springs, sway bars, and some good tires and you will have a Good looking great handling more reliable car that will be really fun to daily drive These are also all things you will NEED anyway when you do power mods, so why not start with them rather than have the car laid up when you break **** and have no more money |
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What he said plus a 125 shot of juice!! Low 12's perhaps? |
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The car is bone stock, So the gears are 3.23? (dont hold me to that.) But I think suspension is the way to go, Besides a quick exhaust switch to make it sound mean.
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I am going to post this since it will take me several minutes to clean the thread, and don't want to find anything new when I finish
This is the tech section. He asked for advice on the car he currently owns. This is not the "go buy a ls1" section and that is really not productive. People here enjoy all generations and all drivetrain options that these cars came with, get over it. |
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I'm not sure if he will take it to the track or what but I had a ten bolt with a heads cam motor and it didn't pop. Granted I didn't launch at 4 grand but he shouldn't have to worry that much with an auto. And yes 4.11s are too much, I forgot it was an auto. I vote gears or a rear with gears depending on future plans
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2. Going into the 4.xxx ratios cuts the life span, the carrier isn't designed for ring gears that skimpy. 3. Limited budget, daily driver, automatic, don't mod the ten bolt |
In the future I would really like to put a 12 bolt in it, I used to drag race it but with it being my daily I dont take the chance to harm it to much. I miss drag racing and have big plans for it later in life. This plan includes a twin to this car (1 for racing and 1 for street) I have had this car for 4 years and against my family and friends advice I have put money into it and finally have gotten it steady to mod it. Sorry I know that was long but I felt it should be added to the thread.
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Not a diesel or uti thread. Next deleted post comes with time off to read and learn the rules
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True about the ten bolt. With what he wants to do now and in the future I think a good option is a rear. Suspension wise or engine wise, if he upgrades he will run the risk of blowing the rear. Buy a rear, it will waken the car up a lot and you will need one down the road anyway
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imo dont upgrade anything until you actually break it. bc who knows how long that 10 bolt can last you. just be prepared for it.
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