Yea should be quite fun with the 3600 yank

Yeah. Traction would become problematic.

MT ET street radials, do it.

I was recommended a 226/230 cam by AI for my ported 243's. I really wish I kept them and just went with a shelf F10 cam but even baby cam's put down great power with these heads.

First I need to install heads, cam, fuel pump, fuel pump harness, and 42 pound injectors.

Wayfast, I'm trying to keep idle quality and driveability, not looking for max power.

Well what are you waiting for? :lol:

Although, isn't it cam, lifters, then heads? :wink:

I'm working on it! :laugh:

I thought I could put the lifters in from the bottom? :confused:

I remember this thread from a long time back: http://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomete...k-results.html


Personally, I'm glad you're going with a smaller cam and keeping driveability. I'd rather have the midrange pull than the top-end grunt, for a street car, as well.

You should run the same cam I'm running, 247/251 112 :lol:

Mike, I saw that as well. It's very, very tempting.

Barney, that's a great cam... for a race car. :laugh:

you should flow them.... You could have done more damage then good.

I really doubt it, as this isn't my first time with a grinder in my hands. I also didn't make major port changes aside from removing the rocker bolt boss. The rest consisted of contouring the valve guides, opening up the throats, and blending the valve seats into the port. This was followed up with using sanding rolls to knock down the casting flash in the port. I didn't dick with the floor, or the roof aside from blending in the area that used to be occupied by the bolt boss. The swirl ramp is exactly as cast, just smoothed out.

Port work done at the level I did is not magic. Does everyone believe that the only way to make power is with a cnc machine? Or that those cnc programs were handed down from on high along with the ten commandments?

sorry for hijack but how much does cnc porting go for?

CNC porting with a valve job runs somewhere in the 600-700 range.

So did you scrap the heads and get some CNC'd ones yet?

I am now so ashamed that I dared to take a grinder to a set of ultra-super-rare 243 heads that I'm now junking the car and giving up driving forever. May god have mercy on my soul for my heretical actions in porting my own heads.

Seems like the best bet, but better enter the LS1 in the auto heritage museum, their super rare I hear.

:kneeslap:

So, what cam did you get?

I was not saying that they have to be CNC to be a good head. My buddy mikey from MCP hand ports his 243s that make killer power and flow very well. The point that i was geting at was You should flow the head to see if the work you did made the head better. From pics posted your not going to see any huge gains in power. FYI mikeys 4x heads HAND PORTED picked up 40 rwhp and 50 ftlbs of tq over a stock head with an ls6 intake

LTb1ow - I'm kinda leaning towards the EPS 222/226 115LSA, .597 .598. If you check that thread on LS1 tech, it made 430 RWHP on a bone stock crate LS6. It had a mild idle, and a hell of a lot of torque. It's probably going to be *something* real close to that. The Texas Speed 224/224 on a 114 is a proven performer, too, putting down 400+ RWHP with all the supporting mods and tuning. The EPS cam made 430 RWHP through an auto, though. Holy crap.

1984CamaroZ28 - If I pick up 20 HP from what I did, then I accomplished what I set out to do. I wasn't after major gains; I was looking to clean up the stock ports before I had the valve job done. Spending money to have them flow tested will accomplish nothing whatsoever; they're getting run as they are. It's a street car; I'm not looking for big ports that are lazy in air velocity at low RPM. So, I hit what will give me gains without sacrificing velocity. The rocker bolt boss is a giant flow restriction; before I had cleaned the heads you could see where the airflow was by the crud on the port walls; where the velocity was high, it was clean from the fuel wash. Where it was slow/blocked, there was junk on the walls. I got rid of restrictions. I opened up the throats, and blended the seats into the rest of the port, eliminating any ridges or sharp corners. I reduced the profile of the valve guides, which increases volume in the area of the port where the air is trying to turn a corner, and that helps without dropping velocity too much.

Trust me, I didn't go in and 'hog **** out.' I was careful, changed one section of each port at a time in all 8 ports so I could keep it as consistent as possible. I'm looking for flow gains without sacrificing port velocity and from what I've read/seen/experienced in other heads I have ported, I've made things better.

You cant go wrong with a tr224 or 224r.

You seem to have it all figured out..... G/L with ur build