![]() |
Quote:
|
https://www.amazon.com/MASTERCOOL-71.../dp/B007TN15EG
Its the best. You can get 37.5* stuff for nawzzzzzzzz too! |
Quote:
Quote:
|
instead of having to replace all the lines, i could just replace the commpression fittings with these?
Straight fitting to the rear line to complete 3 channel swap https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-323...origin=keyword and a T for the fronts https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-466...origin=keyword then just remake lines from line lock and prop valve? |
You have to flare the metal line to create a sealing surface. You can do it by hand or whatever tool you get to do it with. You would be doing the inverted "double" flare.
http://racetrackdriving.com/tech/bra...chematic-2.jpg |
Quote:
I ordered a 3/16 flare tool from my matco guy at work. $60, figured it値l be better than one of those $40 universal kits, but save me $ from the hydrolic kit on amazon |
Quote:
|
You just need 1 tee for front lines. Just flare the one line you need for the rear and remove the other. You can use that union to extend the rear line if needed. The factory metal lines are pretty tough, have fun :D
|
Quote:
yup! I had to flare some stainless under the car back in feburary. as in, not off the car in a vice on a workbench, but laying on my back under the car with the line flailing all around as I worked on flaring it. next year that particular line is becoming nickle-copper, but for now my flare worked. do some test flares on scrap pieces of line first too. just so you get the hang of it. brute force is not the way to go here. takes a few practice runs to start learning. a little brake fluid as lube on the flare's die can be helpful too. also, try not to over tighten the fittings, the threads can strip easily and then you have to cut off your brand new flare, remove the fitting, hope you have enough spare line to make up the difference you just cut off, reflare etc. |
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:30 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.