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Quote:

Originally Posted by Fasterthanyou

I was looking at emachineshop.com and they're prices are crazy overpriced. I was looking at getting your flanges waterjet cut and they wanted nearly $200 for the pair! So I think getting a gasket and flat stock is the best bet. You can do this now without any car down-time. Pick a primary size, I'd go 1 3/4" since you need to remove 220+hp worth of air. Remember v8's have 2 extra cylinders and usually smaller exhaust ports than your v6 so the primary size isn't black and white. Once you've decided which primary size, use the gasket to find the holes, drill and you MIGHT be able to get a hole saw to last through 6 mild steel cuts. The key is using the correct cutting oil and stopping to clean up the hole. Then Summit sells u and j-bends that we can cut and weld. The only tricky part is going to be making the collector but I've got a design that we've used in our 4 cyl headers that doesn't require anything fancy, just a grinder.
Tim, do you have a chop saw? How much does one cost... they're SO useful for doing this kind of work.
For all the tools/parts I've come up with $160 to do everything including the y-pipe. That price is if we use band clamps on the y-pipe and no flanges. If you want the ball flanges it'll be more and then the price for a chop-saw....
Still, you can make those flanges now so get too it :) .

Jon,
We're gonna be doing some work New Year's Day since it will be so nice. Why don't you come down and we can really put this thing into motion?

I don't get it.
Why don't you just BUY some headers?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mister_Johnny99

I don't get it.
Why don't you just BUY some headers?

everything out there is a shorty header with the wrong size primary then what he wants...hes playing with the big boys with stock heads, intake, cam, TB, MAF therefore he needs the good **** to compete...some thin wall long tubes will/should do the trick.

Yea, RKsport is the only company that sells 1 3/4" primary headers for the 3.8, and their fit and finish is said to be lacking. Plus, why spend twice as much for shorties, when you can make your own longtubes?

- Justin

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tru2Chevy

pretty large primary dont ya think? I mean my pacesetters on my ls1 were 1 3/4 lol, dunno but i would think that might hurt him :?:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tru2Chevy

Yeah, I did a search for the headers and the Clear Image stuff looked pretty good but wow was the RKSport stuff crap. It honestly looked like a child designed it... 2 bolt flat flanges, WTF were they thinking or weren't they?
The long tubes are the way to go for max mid and high rpm power. Sure you'll loose like 5 ft-lbs below 3000rpm but WTF are you doing racing down there anyway ;) . I say 1 3/4" 26" longtubes, the longer the tube the better the mid range. I don't have access so my awesome simulation software or I could pick out a primary length that was perfect.... SO my best guess is 26", but I could easily change my mind since it isn't MY car....
As for new years day, we'll have to see how bad my hang-over is. I might be staying in the city overnite, just haven't made definatly plans yet. 3 party's and I can only choose 2 :( .

Quote:

Originally Posted by foff667

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tru2Chevy

pretty large primary dont ya think? I mean my pacesetters on my ls1 were 1 3/4 lol, dunno but i would think that might hurt him :?:

Nah....the 3.8 still has plenty of air to let out, and if we are gonna build a custom set, 1 3/4" is the way to go.

- Justin

when i calculated out(rough from formulas) the primary length i came up with 27.2inches with a 1 3/4 primary. looking to use a 2.5 inch collector and flowmaster scavenger y-pipe into a single 3inch.
there is a ton of room in there, especially since we are "fixing" teh air condtioning tomorrow. :wink: now i jsut have to talk him out of the power steering and there will be all the room you could ever hope for to use wider elbows and longer straight sections in the construction of the tubes. :)

later
tim

cool deal good luck :)