Does anyone off the top of their head know if ill need different bolts for the valley cover with the Fast 92 manifold? or is that only needed for the 102 Big Mouth Billy Fast

Yes

Definitely need those shallow bolts.

Hopefully going to finish the hard parts install of the ABS/LL today. Not going to do the electrical portion completely until i figure out how im going to have my switches.

Today I had a great lesson in the right tool makes the job much easier.


I bought one of those cheapo brake line flare tools. Not the best idea I've had. The metal on the "cone" of the tool, the part that actually presses the mouth of the line is a super soft metal. I flared the 4 on chassis lines and that's it. The cone was pretty well pancaked, so I couldn't do the 2 lines from the noids to the T fittings. I only have to do those 2, so I'll prob just get one from harbor freight tomorrow and finish it off.

You guys don't have a hydraulic flaring tool at work? Damn audi's and their not rusting brake lines!

Nope lmao I was counting on using one of the dealer ones when I ordered the Kit. And I asked one of my techs for it and he just laughed lol

And I did look it up, I've sold 2 brake line part numbers in my 5 years at audi. Both of which were collision cars.

buttoning up everything, hopefully roll the car outside this weekend and get the K member pulled.

http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/...psysqniebi.jpg

Fuel tank ready to go in finally. Going to remove the return line from the tank to the bay while im under there as well.

http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/...ps96idriph.jpg

FYI: If your entire suspension & pans aren't gloss purple by the time this thing is back together I'm going to be genuinely disappointed.

purple matches with blue... right ?

purple matches purple....

I'm sorry. I must have missed the part where the guy with the black-orange-primer-lime-and-rogue car started caring about matching paint codes.

Do it for ImportKiller.

You watch your mouth

Knock sensors and harness from came today.

Since the Knock sensors that came out of the block look like they were the knock sensors on the titanic, am okay putting like a bead of silicon around the black "grommet" to keep the water out of my sensors?

thoughts ?

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/cimg/www.ls1.../hd-149805.png

Do it. I did it on my truck. Just make sure the holes are dry before you silicon it up

Never tried it. Do you know how many miles/years those knock sensors had on them? I'd just take a look at them again in a year or two.

In all honestly though, you'll probably put a rod through block before it's time to swap them out next.

You'll def blow this thing to pieces before the knock sensors become an issue due to water intrusion.

Yeah, i dont know why im even worried about it. Like this thing is actually every going to run before it gets parted out for a supra or something.



















:bertstare:

Knock sensors are in. Didnt have any RTV on the shelf like i thought, So waterproofing will come sometime today.

http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/...pseegmuq9u.jpg

These fancy fancy things came last night as well. I was skeptical at first, but people that have used them swear by them. So i figured ill give them a go instead of fiddeling with poor flares. Most of me regrets buying the SJM ABS delete. Going to add this to the list of things Adam was right about on this build. I should have just bought a proportioning valve and Line Lock and made up all lines and fittings on my own. Since thats what im doing now anyway.

http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/...psdkxhvnqo.jpg

:clap:

These Swageloke fittings are really cool. Way better that sitting there and messing with flaring. Got the 2 straight connectors off the rear lines on today, as well as the T fitting for the front lines. Only had a little time left so I cut and got the line done from the front T to the Line lock. I don't have a computer, so I can't post pics of it all till I get onto my work comp tmmr.