I have the block back from the machine shop. I have everything I need for the bottom end. Just need to set aside the time to assemble.

I'll make a thread once I actually have everything and put it together.

Correct me if im wrong, but those heads are just GM castings they CNC. If you supply your own casting to PRC you would save yourself about $400. I think TEA uses a hair larger valves, which is prob the reasoning for the hair better numbers.

https://www.texas-speed.com/p-1172-p...-castings.aspx



TEA: $1,1000

Lift Intake Exhaust
0.100 67 54
0.200 139 120
0.300 219 179
0.400 271 224
0.500 308 248
0.550 315 255
0.600 320 260

PRC: $950

Lift Intake Flow Exhaust Flow
.200" 147 cfm 114 cfm
.300" 209 cfm 152 cfm
.400" 258 cfm 191 cfm
.500" 294 cfm 207 cfm
.600" 316 cfm 226 cfm

Yes I believe you are correct. I have a set of 317's but I'm going to opt for the brand new GM castings that PRC uses. In my case, I know the original motor was overheated- so after spending ~$3k in a rotating assembly and ~$1k in machine work, I'd rather have the peace of mind of brand new GM castings

In a situation like that then yeah if definitely makes sense to go with new then lol

IDK how much you have in those heads already, Just didn't want to see you spend $1,100+, when you might be able to get a better deal buying something new.

I forget how much i paid for them but cheaper than the normal going rate for 243, i think i got em for $250. I see them go for mostly $350-$400.

so $250 for the heads and another $250 for a BTR spring kit with Ti retainers

Tea replaces the valves, guides, full Valvetrain, and Cnc inside and out on heads so given all the threads are intact it makes more sense to send them cheaper used cores than to buy new.

243>317 heads for N/A ls1/2 considering the milling potential to optimize compression

Stock LS1 has 10.1 compression ratio with 68 cc chamber IIRC?

The 317's can be milled down to 65 cc chamber.

Then he'd need a cathedral port intake manifold.

Not saying the 317s would be a better choice. I was just trying to point out that he might be able to find new cast heads for a good deal. Again, not necessarily cheaper than the route he is planning on, but IMO it gives more piece of mind.


Either way, get that motor in the car. Duke island is right around the corner

LS1, stock 241 head ~67cc, stock .051" HG = 10.35:1scr
LS1, stock 243 head ~64cc, stock .051" HG = 10.73:1scr

Stock head gaskets are .051" to help with emissions to get a more complete burn of the charge. Going to .040" gaskets is best for a stock motor IMO to balance quench and clearance of pistons OOTH, then work out the chamber size to best fit DCR for your desired cam timing and fuel.

LS1, 72cc 317 head MAX milled to 65cc, .040" HG = 10.60:1 scr
LS1, 64cc 243 head milled to 62cc, .040" HG = 11.32:1 scr/ 8.77:1dcr (for Sir Beggs cam choice and 93 pump)

So with the 317 heads you would be leaving ~0.7:1 compression on the table. The rule of thumb for compression is ~5% per full point of compression, so 0.7:1 = 3.5%, and assuming ~450hp crank thats about 16hp. Plus the peace of mind that your heads are not milled thin and ready to give you a piece of their mind. Given you could still do some tricks with installed ICL or adding timing to make up some of the compression difference, but y?

I has. My Fast setup is a cathedral port. I wish it was LS3 top end.

:horse:

Even that horse would choose 243s

Timing cover, Oil pump, Cam retainer plate bolts all reusable or they torque to trash

Timing cover is definitely reusable, I would think the oil pump is too since the torque spec is pretty low. Not positive about the cam plate, but I would think that one would also

if you torque them higher than what they had before, they are brand new tty bolts.

#logical

Tracking number for boomstick hasnt changed at all since yesterday, so it looks like i wont be getting it for the weekend.


on a side note, when replacing new front seal, any special tools needed to seat the seal?

Does it make sense to throw the cam in prior to having to spin the motor upside down to do the rod bolts? Or should i just wait it out and do the cam after the rod bolts.

If heads are on, do the cam with the motor flipped upside down. That way the liters have no chance of dropping down. I did it all that way and then did my rod bolts on my crate ls6.

This legit made me spit my lunch all over my keyboard.

Question:

Safe to clean oil pan and pan bolts on standard parts washer?

Why not?

Wasn't sure if maybe to harsh of a chemical for the soft metal

Inevitable Failure.
 

Chugga Chugga here comes the fail train


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