X10

:stupid:

its here
 

woot

so i have a 406 now waiting for me to make enough money to get vortecs and a intake and a cam and all the necessities

GOOD MOVE.

Always start with a good base. :mrgreen:

Yep I think i will have a real good set up when I get money I want to get everything I need to use with a non computer controlled carb and my 700r4 then drop her in then work on intake and carb and dizzie..

btw im virtually going with dirtrenolds vortec set up and seeing if I can get mid 11's considering he thought he can get 11.8 with a 3700 pound car...

edit his best before going with different heads was like a 12.2 and even that is not bad

Dirt knows his Vortec **** cold. A bunch of us called (still call) him Dirt "Vortec" Reynolds over on NastyZ.

Just be sure to spec all of your parts before you buy ANYTHING.

I cleaned it up some today with out using any degreeser just water and it looks alot better, cant wait to get everything for it..

just one question, whats with the paint all over the valvetrain? honestly, thats half-assed. plus whats the true specs of that motor? you said 400 now its 406, so its been rebuilt once or what?

its a 400, but brian(hardline) bought it from a guy who had a mild performance rebuild, brian drove the car and said it had tons of tq, he was going to use it for his camaro, but built up an all forged motor,including a stealthram.

when the heads are off, im gonna see if I can measure what ever the hell you measure to tell the bore...

You will probably need a set of dial calipers to do this.

sounds expensive..

would it be wrong to paint it poncho blue?? eventually

Paint it whatever you want. Personally, I'd paint it whatever your stock engine color was and then call it a "305" to mess with people's heads.

That would be sweet. I like the 2-bolt 400 blocks for that same reason. They have the same number of freezeplugs as any other small block. If you swap in an internally balanced rotating assembly, you can tell everyone it's a stock 350 and no one's the wiser ;-) !

Matt, here's a cheapie set of dial calipers from harbor freight:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93293

personally, id use a real dial bore gauge and not a regular caliper. you may be able to rent one fromautozone or such(maybe not though) or once you have the block apart, take it to a machine shop and have them measure the bores, just so you know for sure. but i think you said you were only changing the heads so that wouldnt work.

also whats the stroke of the crank? has it ever been cut?
length of the rods? are the pistons domed flat or dished? and the cc if domed or dished? you need all that to figure out the compression ratio and then you need to know CC of the head combustion chambers youd be getting. If you just wanna throw vortecs on this motor and run it, be my guest but i'd never do that for any of my cars...

not gona be just that easy to run a mid 11. the 700r4 wont last very long. nor will the 10bolt/9bolt once u start cuting some good 60s. your gona need a good suspension and a nice sticky tire

I know that. I plan on getting the motor situated first though so Ill have a runing car, and not waste money by buying parts then buying different parts to do it first.

Trans Im verry pissed about, Ill prolly keep it and eventually go with a bowtie over drive trans when im about 17 1/3 is when major work is going to happen :wink:

Good advice, I was not sure if he'd have access to an actual bore gauge.

Wayfast,

CKPerformance > Bowtie Overdrives

f those prices!! I feel so ****ing violated, I wish I could have gotten a 1600 buck trans verse 1000 crapola rebuild that I didnt need!!

Looks like the th350 is going to be used with the 400 and if that goes ill get another one..

just using this for the links of everything im getting
 

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

http://bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog/...AT&CATID=OA1A3

who gonna drill the steam holes? and a nitrous cam?

Why didn't you just use the curse word the first time too? Why did you appreviate it the first time then type it the second time?

I am not sure yet, no the cam is not a nitrous cam, I did that by accident.. Damn summit

I might ask Brian to drill the steam holes for a few bucks. Once again ill say Id rather give a member here some money to do something verses a shop..


I am not sure why I said “f” then “****” I am weird..

cam = junk

carb = ok. if you want all out performance go with mechanical secondary, if you plan to use the car as a driver or cruise around a lot vacuum is ok, but you will need to tune it.

heads = look for used. you will want to have work done to the heads anyway, so there is no need to spend money on new.

head bolts = ok

intake = for the power band you are looking at, if that cam is an example of where you would like to shift, you would get more from a low rise single plain. an edelbrock torker2 or weiand xcelerator (not sure if it is available for vortecs)would be good choices

lock up kit = i think b&m makes one that is cheaper

yep everything is junk considering its a proven combination..

no one said it was all junk...

we still dont know what cam you are talking about. that link is for a nitrous cam.

vortecs may be proven, he didnt say they werent, he said buy USED since you're gonna want to have them worked. or waste money, im sure none of us mind.