Well I meant that I could make the WOT happen before the blades are actual WOT? I know I would sacrifice a few hundred RPM but I am hesitant to spray at an RPM that I don't feel so good revving to NA.

then i would set your rev limiter a little lower..... rather than playing with the wot switch, do it with the rev limiter and window switch

So what would be a good window to spray in? 3k to 6k?

without knowing anything about your motor that's imposable to tell. you will want to set the window switch a couple hundred rpm under the rev limiter in case something fails. that as you know will depend on your cam, valve train, and tune.

on the bottom end, you want it high enough to be able to get the car out of the hole and be ensured of traction, but not so low that it shuts off immediately after each shift lifting slightly while shifting will turn the wot switch off, then you want to still be in the window as you catch the next gear......

Any one use the HSW interface or microedge?

I have this micro switch and ashtray switch it would be great if you wanted to hide things http://jimmy-jams.tripod.com

if its filled, you need a permit, and as long as its in their, it needs to be disconected, nobody ever said you couldnt show them the decoy

No one has used the microege or interface from HSW?

im sure plenty of people have on tech

I know people use it, lol, I just want some more details on it. I am hopefully gonna call em tmmr to get more details but some first hand knowledge would be great.

its more insurance, but the fpss, window switch, and wot switch is enough

Well just kinda glancing over the details, it incorporates that and you can choose what TPS voltage you want WOT to be and window settings are made from that. It also can pull timing which is a plus.

Bah, this stuff is to confusing.

A FPSS, window switch, WOT switch, and arming switch ought to be just fine for you.

When you step up to a 300hp dual stage system you can be more critical of what your nitrous is doing when.

quick scan of the hsw site seems like the microedge has all the safety equipment built into it which is cool, but also if it fails, everything fails....so you lose any backup you have........

the interface just seems like something to cheat your tune......if you get a proper nitrous tune it shouldn't be necessary

you don't want to cheat wot, your better off having your rev limiter lowered, that is the correct way to not run rpm's that you don't want to run....

Yea I guess I should look into that too. But there must be another way to get the nitrous to activate at WOT other than a micro switch right?

why reinvent the wheel? its simple, easy, and cheap?

I like making things difficult. ;)

I guess a micro switch will have to work, lol.

Another random question, unless you leave at WOT, how do people spray off the line?

leaving at wot, tends to be the fastest way down the track........

Yea and that would be what, like a 5000 stall? Great street manners.....

you can go micro switch or use the voltage from the TPS if you wanna go fancy digital style. Either way you need some sort of input so it knows throttle position to some degree.

Well I wanna do this the right way and trying to make it the most clean I can. Less wires etc is good.

Depends if you are talking a 5k flare stall speed on teh spray or a 5000 stall speed when N/A. Remember, part of the determination of stall speed is the amount of power you are putting into it.

So if you have a TC that flares to 5kish on a 150 shot out of the hole, it is more than likely in the 3500-3800 range just driving around. From what I have experienced in various cars, that is a perfectly livable range for cruising around.

dude.....when the light turns green, you press on the pedal, it goes to the floor, you go down the track. you dont need to stage at wot

Sorry sorry guys, this is kinda all new to me, drag racing and N20..... :shock:

Ah well, I have till the summer to figure things out. So pardon my lack of knowledge.