I was told my car would start like crap in the cold if i !AIR !EGR with longtubes... is that true? not that it would change my mind on what i do anyway

Oo and can anybody tell me what i would need for sand blasting (besides sand) like what kinda gun... something fairly cheap that can be used with a 120psi air compressor... containment area?? yea any advice is nice

must also add you guys are quite helpful :mrgreen:

if you want to shotcut the sandblasting, go pick up some duplicolor paint remover, and after all the paints off, spray them clean with brake clean, save ya a ton of time and money. I bought my sandblaster for other stuff, but I did it cause I already had the tool to do it.

Erm?

Never heard that one before, mine starts right up all the time.

just FYI... go with a copper style gasket... even if you have to buy it seperately... i cant tellyou have many paper gaskets have burned through on me over the years... i had copper style on my mac-mids and never had a problem for 3 years... ALSO.... for anyone looking for some trick header bolts.... i just bought these S/S header bolts from a company called "totally stainless".... they are arp bolts 1" in length and they have a dual washer setup and the washer that mates to the header is splined or barbed to dig into the header and the second washer that mates to the bolt head and the first washer has a "ratchet" style system so it locks into that first washer... my machine shop turned me on to them and said they never had a problem with them when they used those bolts....and they will look alot nicer than having those stupid lock rings on the stage 8's... just some food for though...

Never had a single prob with my current pacesetter supplied gaskets and hardware. ;)

like you would be able to tell if you had an exhaust leak :rofl:

so wait, they dig into the primaries?

Now if i !AIR !EGR, would i need to tune in for the headers? or just delete the emissions codes?

if you have someone going in to tune out the codes, might as well have them tune for the headers

nahh... they dig into the flange like maybe somthing you would see on a grounding bolt that digs in for goog ground... ill bring one with me next time i see you guys... they are pretty sweet... and cost the same as those split bolts with the setscrew that i think would be useless on lt1's due to the clearance issues.... i got them in 12 point too so they look even cooler... yeaaaaa

p.s. i actually did have a very small leak or what looked like one when i removed my headers... most likely from a loose bolt that i couldnt get to to recheck after installation.... but yea i cant wait to hear gmmg with LT's and my cam.... i get butterflys just thinking about it!

Your car will never run.

^^^ apparently yours wont either...

And for the record, header wrap is a great way to kill the life span of your headers.

keeps that pesky moisture from getting out into the eviroment and rusting everything else

i have pace setters long tubes and high flow cats in the y pipe. fully legal emissions with all o2 sensors functioning. i think its easier to do it right the first time and drive through inspection than to leave the cats out and get nailed i hear thats a pretty hefty fine. if you decide to go with cats and need to know where to place them. let me know and ill send a pic. fyi. im pretty sure high flow cats aren't street legal but it gets you passed the visual

if you have pics post em up, i havnt set anything in stone yet

IMO, not worth it. Still illegal no matter how you cut it. And OBDII does not get a sniff test, so there really is no "need" for cats, all you need is a clear systems check and some heatshielding to make it appear as though you have a cat.

correct. but when they check the odbII and its running open loop the secondary air and egr will continue to show a not ready status and you are only allowed to have a certian number of not ready status for reinspection. if you go through a privete shop they can usually override one of them but not both. so in order to get a real inspection sticker you really need the rear o2 sensors functioning. and in order to have functioning rear o2's you need to place them behind some type of cats. now there are enough real mechanics on this site so if that is not really the case someone please correct me. i dont mind being wrong would rather know if i am

they tune the rear 02's out or put in sims. can also tune pretty much everything else out and pass fine.

the whole visual thing though.....oh and there is a new program in effect with new equipment coming. no more NOx testing, no more egr needed :)

the sims do work but when they are just tuned out it throws the not ready status. i had slp tune my car and thats what they did and i kept failing inspection so finally i had another guy tune it. he turned them back on and i went right through. then i submitted the bill to slp and had them pay for the retune. and they didnt even argue with me about it. and of the codes i was talking about failing for it was secondary air, egr, and evaporation system.

weird. i have personally seen cars with rear o2's tuned out pass nj state inspection. slp must have been newbin it up. all of those codes can be tuned out and have the emission monitors read, "ready" :-?

iv had sims on my car for a while now.. they worked fine... but ill probably just have them tune the rear o2's out when the time comes...

Im sorry you are correct. slp had me running open loop and thats why i was getting the not ready stats. i thought i put rear o2's back in but i didnt. just new front ones. i guess its good that its been that long since ive had to work on it that i forgot.

probably just gonna !air !egr !cats to make life simple. and full of pollutants.

i tried to take pics of the y with out putting the car on a lift but that didnt work to well. so as soon as i get time ill get it on a lift and post some.