Obligatory baseless opinion post. Wasn't expecting it from you.

I think that concludes what little constructive conversation that was happening in this thread. When I try it, I'll report back and see if you guys were right.

I wouldn't do it any other way on my car.

Sarsasm is lost when you are drunk. :lol:

Are you going to try running the oval tubing under the axle then? That would make the most sense to hope to have decent clearance. Also, what will you do when you need to put the car on a lift and let the suspension droop? won't that end up hitting the exhaust and pulling it away from the body?

Based on the roads here in NJ and especially the parking lots and curbs, I know those under axle systems would be bouncing off a lot of stuff around here. I Used to hit the curb with the extra capacity trans pan going into a parking lot around the corner from work here.

We just made over 600 hp at the rear wheels with an LT1 with Stainless Works long tubes, 2.5" y pipe, and Borla 3" cat back on it. I dont see the need for the extra agg of running two pipes out the back if you dont have to.

That's only a 2.5'' y-pipe on that car?

And while its nice that you can make X amount of power through a stock style exhaust, whats to say you are leaving Y amount of power on the table for doing so?

dyno it dumped headers tuned accordingly and then with catback tuned accordingly. note power difference.

Jeff! Stop hitting curbs with your fbodies! We know they can tow, but you don't need to offroad with them too :)

Here is one, mine won't have that dreadful pinch bend:

http://i1.tinypic.com/mj75zb.jpg

flange to disconnect in case rear needs to come off, plenty of slack in case suspension becomes completely unloaded and plenty of ground clearance in case I have to hop a curb.

it won't be any lower than where the cat will be:

http://www.fquick.com/images/vehicle...2033304612.jpg

if the body goes up and the suspension goes down (aka full travel) then those pipes will smash into the sway bar. it will be even worse with a lowered car since you are trying to tuck it up to the body on a suspension setup that is sitting closer to the body.

i'm just seeing too much negative for it to be outweighed by any positive. i say you dump at the rear axle and run fake tips. no bends to rob power, good clearance, and tips! :lol:

Wouldn't it be easy to replicate this scenario by mocking the exhaust up with the car lifted from the body? Crisis averted!

Trust me, I'm not concerned about our cars' one inch of rear suspension travel.

yes but if you hang the exhaust with the suspension fully extended, its going to sit
awfully low at ride height, no? i know you are just under-exaggerating but our rear
suspensions have a good amount of travel in them. you may be ok driving on local
roads and learning what to avoid bump wise but there will be the times when you
can't avoid a bump and you end up with !tailpipes. i'm not trying to talk you out of
the setup cause i know you are going to do it, i'm just sharing some constructive
criticism. if you attack it properly, you can probably pull it off pretty good. if you go
over the axle or run dumps, there will be nothing to worry about :)

Its 385 ci on pump gas and 11/12 lb of boost.. How much power do YOU think it should have made? 1.85 hp/ci isnt too bad in my opinion especially when you factor in the limitations of the 92 Octane fuel. If the exhaust was too restrictive I doubt it would have made what it did.

The original point that I was trying to make is if we can make 600+rwhp with a 2.5" y and single 3" back half then what need does a 300-400hp engine have for anything larger?

I'm talking about the entrance to a parking lot, that "low" piece of curb. NJ is falling apart fast and if you can't fit at least a beer can standing up under anything hanging from your car, you will hit stuff. Think about it, why haven't car guys been running pipes under the rear axle for the last 30-40 years? Because it's a really bad idea with no benefits. Mandrel bends don't rob any real power unless you're making 600+ hp. And especially if you're talking about 3" dual exhaust which is way overkill. A true 2-1/2" dual over the axle will make plenty of power without the negative aspects. And a lowered car makes the argument even stronger. My 93 wasn't lowered and that trans pan was hitting stuff and it was more than a beer can off the road. Don't underestimate our crappy roads which are getting worse and won't be fixed in this economy.

i think you meant to quote matt and his equation, i was merely problem solving.

i also agree there are better alternatives for maximizing power through an exhaust.

nah nah, he meant you fool.

2 very good points. I see what you guys mean now. Dang.

I mean, I want duals for the sound and power benefits. I know I can make the power with the Y, but the duals will always make more power AND more importantly sound better. Going over the axle is an idea, but I still want to do a Watts link setup, so fitting the tubes will be tough. I haven't completely ruled out my idea yet, but I get what you guys are saying. I'll post up when the time comes.

Close, 3.5". :mrgreen:

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...g?t=1288391490

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...g?t=1288391471

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...g?t=1288391464

there is plenty of room to go over the axle with a dual setup. going under the axle doesnt appeal. theres plenty of obstacles around that will scrape...especially speed bumps.

Watts link actually creates more room for over the axle duals.

http://lt1engine.com/?level=album&id=7&plog_page=1

tons of shots of true dual setups in there, have at it!

thanks man. the FAQs on ls1tech have a good amount of pics too and descriptions of the setup. That's really where I got this idea.