I've been driving it around all day, nothing feels wrong and nothings happened

Soo my car wouldn't start yesterday so I left it for about three hours, came back -it started right up. Would crank but no spark.. guessing this one should be simple?

jeez one thing after the other....well i guess check the coil and the crank/cam position sensors, and then check your harness

when you say no spark you checked for it ? or just because it didnt turn over ?

Just because it didn't turn over - it starts fine plenty of times just that weird time it doesn't. I'll check the plugs later

I'm still leaning towards my first diagnosis, fuel regulator. I just delt with the exact same symptoms a few months . Even had a new fuel pump from the year before. Long crank or sometimes times none. Stalling while either cruising or pulling away from traffic stop light/sign there were a few others but it was months ago. The car also had a new ect, and idle air done at the same time as the pump for other issues.

That's as much as I can help, without having the car.

Brother says theres no spark - and he also suggested the crank position sensor, how much would that ring up including labor?

Honestly, before spending $170+ on new sensors and then labor, I'd go take a trip to the junk yard and pull off ones off some cars, and use them to test to see if that is infact the problem. It would allow you to learn how to properly pull things apart on our engines without the worry of damaging your car. The great thing about our engines is just about all the parts are compatible between 96-2003 for the 3800 II engine, which you'll find in Bonneville's, Grand Prix's, Le Sabre's, Regals, etc. and there are tons of them in the yards. The bad part is the Crank pulley needs to be taken off to get to the crank senso, which is okay if your a home since oyu could use an impact wrench, but in the junkyard it's different. So unless you pull or drop the engine down, and then have enough muscle to loosen the crank bolt WHILE preventing the crank from rotating ( a screw driver in a cylinder hole should do the trick), it's going to be a pain in the ass to do ( you will also need the crank pulley removal tool to get it off, but I'm sure you can just rent that at Advance Auto.) The Cam isnt as hard, I believe you might need to take the water pump pulley off to get to it, and that's just 4 bolts on the face fo the pulley.

Like I said, I would do that to save money, adn learn some stuff, but that's as long as you have time and patience to learn.

Alrighty!!! Well, after my car being stranded in Margate for two weeks and taking it to a mechanic (which I didn't have much confidence in, but was my only choice) he replaced the ignition module. Runs for five days and acts up just as it has, but it seems to more violently shut off (loud noises when shutting down). This time I was in a parking lot in a not so good part of town instead of the usual cruising. Starts up, cuts off within 5 feet of going in reverse.

I've given up hope in this car and wish to drive it off a bridge. I've also been brought up the suggestion by family that it could be "water" in the gas tank. Now I don't know much about this.. nor do I know how much water can do this - but i'm willing to be enlightened on that possibility. No, I didn't drive through lakes and my gas cap isn't cracked from what I see.

I did notice that the last few times it's died on me like this is when my gas is around a quarter of a tank (not sure if it's a coincidence..) and I did hear a ticking noise going from the top of the engine.. from the left side to the right side like it's some sort of grand father clock.

Take off the fuel filter and catch what comes out in a glass jar. Then poor some gas in too. See if any separation occurs.

you got tools at your house? and any SES lights?

Yeah, i've got some tools and yes I have some SES lights on. The car is over at club 3 Jeff haha

well if i can get some time ill take a peak at it. Unless you can get it to advance auto and they let you use their scanner, thats a good first step.

Already had it scanned, one is the EVAP leak and the other is the Cat code that wasn't erased.

First things first, have them deleted first. I'm suprised the shop you took it to didn't erase the codes. like I said, go to the unkyard, and yank out a couple sensors like the cam and crank sensor, and go from there.

as far as the EVAP deal, stop by advance, and pick up liek a foot of 5/16 and/or 3/8 fuel vapor hose, and replace the little pieces that connect your system to the engine. they dry out, and leak, that's what brought my EVAP deal up. I replace the canister purge valve too, but start with the hoses.

My brother has a little code reader, once I find it i'll erase the codes.

Would it be simpler if I just ordered some sensors online? And I also got the car back in my drive way (died on my street, and I cruised with it off all the way down into my driveway -winning).

You can, but you'll be paying alot for them, that's why getting used ones would be simpler at the moment, so when you find the culprit, you go out and buy that one brand new one, and save youself some dough on ones that didn't.

Are you sure the gas gauge is accurate? Put a couple gallons of gas in and see if it runs fine until you get to 1/4 tank again. I remember fighting a problem on an old 67 Camaro that turned out to be it ran out of gas in my driveway and the gauge was off.

Pretty sure it's not water since the car isn't getting spark. The gas gauge is accurate, i've had that thing on E.

I don't think the crank or cam position sensors are expensive at all for that car just a pia to do.

for the quality cam and crank snesors from my work, your looking at 67 and 56 bucks no including tax. sounds like they may be the culprits if your not getting spark. only other thing would be bad DIS coils, or an already faulty ignition control module that they sit on.

Isn't the crank position sensor there only to detect misfire?

Not to sure on that car.

How did you guys figure out that there is no spark. Just curious

Negative Ghost Rider. For us, it reads along with the cam sensor to help read the timing for the ignition/ DIS system. If it takes a crap on our cars, no dice in starting it.

Alright that's what I thought but figured I'd ask anyways.