His engine is shot, so he has to build something.

Matt is right, bottem end was bad, so the rebuild had to happen. just doing the heads/cam while its out.

That'll do it, every time. Didn't know.

Kirk gave me the head up to run .040 head gaskets, the choices are 39.10, 40.35, 40.85 and 41.30 for Cometic, but then theres Compressed Thickness, which my choices are .040 .045 .051 and .060. Therefor, I am lost.

but then again there is the "LQ9 4.00 bore" set... so IDK

I would be looking at compressed thickness since that will play a part in your static CR and such. Confirm with Kirk if you are looking to match his setup.

You ever scan the flow chart?

Compressed thickness is what matters.

You want the 3.910 bore gaskets for an ls1, .040" thick compressed. They are pricey compared to stock MLS thickness but worth it if you want the most out of the setup. I think you should decide if you're keeping the heads before pulling the trigger on gaskets doe :dj:

does :dj: imply skrillex will give me answers ?



and yea i know, ive been wieghing my options

Interesting Head Flow data by Tony Mamo

educate yourself.

Acccording to that list, your "ported" heads flow less than a stock set with larger valves.

You sir, got trolled.

there has to be some error on the flow chart then ? the heads are clearly modded.

For your sake I hope there was an error, your heads flow on par with mildly ported LT1 heads.

stock motor with a snail sounds so appealing right now

Buy that hotside I posted, cheap turbonetics snail, and ebay coldside...

Junkyard 80e and find a decent rear, good for 10s

And with your track record, about 7 days.

Sell your heads and pick up a set of untouched 243s to install with bolt ons. Get that running and dont worry about a heads cam build right now. It will make decent power and drive ability wont suffer. If and when you pick a direction to go with a build later on, you will have a solid platform to work from.

U can ad LS2 lifter guide trays to your list. Good luck with the build

What is the difference between the LS1 and LS2 lifter trays besides the casting ribs that were removed for clearance on the LS2 since the block is slightly different?

little thicker and stronger

Lifter trays act as a guide, not a support. A failed tray would allow the lifter to rotate. Once the lifter starts to rotate, it would crack the tray soon after. The tray would only allow the lifter to rotate if the guide dimensions on the tray were enlarged from wear, or not seated properly during install. How would the thicker/stronger LS2 tray stop wear between the lifter and tray contact surface faster than the LS1 if they are made from the same plastic? My opinion is that the trays would only be worth replacing if the guides on the set he has are worn down.

You know it all so why ask, just telling what I read in my research on them.

x2 I heard you should swap the trays....

Asking because I dont know it all. I was trying to present my thought process and experience for a technical discussion. Maybe Im in the wrong forum?