The time crunch is real.

Wire loom won't make you faster

unless an unprotected wire gets damaged, then you might go slower.

Its simple enough to do. Up to you my man....

nothing will be unprotected if he just keeps the stock wire loom on there :nick:

I have plenty of black loom. Its a "shop Supply" for wire repair at work.

hillarious!!

Get to cutting.

You only need like two or three sensors, and 8 injectors.

Converter has shipped.



Its about to get real as ****.

What did you go with?

SS4000, I see you have a 4k in your car. How you like?

Love it. Tire wrinkle = swag points correct?

Correct. Guess I'll make up for lack of valve cover breather

somehow rear LCA relocation brackets slipped threw the cracks after $2000 in suspension, so those went on order today.

Also picked up a new rear main to do while its out.

Just writing this all out for reference.

Immediate to do

-Remove Breathers from VC and swap back to standard oil cap via Jersey Mike, will attempt to route coil harness better while doing so.
-Run Shifter Cable from interior to under the car
-Install Ball joins in Upper Control arms and install
-Take Front end set up off roll around bench and put on dolly, take engine off stand and put on bench

To Do next week when arrives

-Install new rear main + flex plate
-Install new front brake lines
-Install harmonic balance via BTR LS balancer install tool

To do after my trans returns from teh undergroundz

-Admire it while its in 1 piece still
-POR15 that ho
-Mate engine to subframe with the hardware i left at Kirks
-Mate engine trans together on dollies
-Plug in as much as the harness as i can and lay on top
-Put Headers on


Question:

Ive never mated a trans and motor together on a bench, only in the car. And on the car everytime ive just slid the converter into the trans, and then bolted up the trans to the block and tightened up the converter bolts threw were the starter bolts up. Since its on the floor and everything will be more open, would it be easier to bolt the converter up to the flexplate prior to bolting the trans to the motor? Or would there be no way to properly "seat" the converter on the input shaft that way.

No, you have to bolt bellhousing up first. You can easily disengage converter from pump and ruin your pump. Check the spacing before you pull converter into flexplate. There's info on the webbers. Remember 3 clicks when seating the converter and to prefill with at least half a quart.

3 clicks? Of the torque wrench ?

Guess its 2 clunk rule :lol:

Oh lol ya, I knew that. You forgetting how many times my trans has blown?! I thought you were talking about tightening it, not seating

Make sure you have proper gap between the flexplate and the converter before bolting them together.

Really? Even if the converter is built for the trans? I thought all 60e converters would be the same. Good to know !

Breathers have been removed from valve covers and ball joints have been installed.

I don't know if Yank gives that info with their converters. I would hope so. The last converter I bought from Circle-D had literature with the proper gap.

Jake's used to have a solid document on the various spacing you needed for various trans/verter combos

Y u no take notes on wut I sey?