just adding to the list. "it's easy" turns into a pricy mess that doesn't run right if you plan wrong.


and probably a whole sending unit, not just a pump. give or take the unknown in the tank now.

I still have the stock large cap distributor. I could also sell this carb/intake/ignition that I don't need to try and offset some costs. It just sucks because I'll have another car that isn't running.

Insert a lot of expletives...

It doesn't get any easier than what you've got right now! A carbureted smallbolck with an HEI. It practically fixes its self. I'm not trying to bust on you but if you can't fix it now what make you think you can add back the TPI and get it running correctly? I'm sure this reads like I'm being a jerk off but that is not my intention. It's a 100% serious question.

I agree with you completely. My failure lies in not having any tools and not being able to get under the car. Biggest issue is I don't know exactly what the previous owner did to the fuel system. If the fuel system was untouched, different story. Tune the carb, fix the t-stat, replace the choke or whatever the issue could be would be a lot easier. I plan to get the car towed back to my house since I can't pay anyone else to do this. Expect a lot of pictures and a lot of questions.

If you are in H'boro I can find time to come by and take a look.

Just went to get the car. It started up first try (not sure what they were trying all morning) and went through the entire cold start just fine. Once the car warmed up I tapped the gas to release the choke and it immediately died. Started it right back up and it would die unless I was on the gas, even just a little bit. Is my choke stuck or something? I drove the car to the lot next door and left it for tonight. I'll call for a tow back to my house in the morning

Thanks I'd appreciate it. I hope to buy a jack and stands tomorrow. This weekend is the craftsman sale at Sears

If you don't, I have a few spares I can lend you for a little bit.

Oh, and the Lowe's was clearing out the garage kit (big floor jack, 2 jackstands) a little while ago.

there are always harbor freight coupons in the car mags. if the timing is right for me I'd come over with wbt.

Sounds like you need to adjust the throttle screw on the carb and try to check the timing to see where it's set. With the choke on(when it's cold) it's holding the throttle open for you. Once it warms up and the choke comes off, it's backing down and sounds like the throttle screw is backed out too far.

That idle screw may be loose and vibrated out.

Thanks guys. That is something I will definitely check. I don't have a timing light though

You don't need a timing light to turn a screw to get the thing to idle.

Jeff mentioned checking the timing too.

Yeah, maybe a vac gauge.

Overlooked that one.

Going to get it towed now. Where is the throttle screw on the carb? I checked the 4160 diagrams and there are like 4 different ones that match that name.

Is it the "throttle body screw" on the bottom of the carb just in front of the throttle lever?

the curb idle screw if its there should have a spring around it to keep pressure on it so it cant vibrate loose

Flat head sticking up at 45 degree angle towards the windshield?

yes thats the one, the base of the screw should be pressing against the lever that controls the butterflies, as WBT posted get a vac gauge it is needed to get the Holley running perfect. FWIW a timing light is great for getting a base to work off. But to really find the sweet spot and make the motor run perfect you need to listen to the engine.

Car is running great now. Thanks guys. I adjusted the throttle screw and its idling around 900 rpms (750 with the fans on).

Don,
I adjusted the two other screws. Driver side was 1.25 turns out and passenger side was almost 3. I set both to 1.5 turns out

Cool, sometimes it is an easy fix!

Yea sometimes. It's only temporary as I still need to re-do all of these fuel lines. I'd like to put in a gauge just before the carb as well. I am also concerned about how close my current lines are to my motor and exhaust manifolds (especially the fuel filter by the firewall). I think it may also be affecting me because I have no trouble on cold starts, but after a few hot soaks, I get problems. The location of the lines and resulting heat could be causing air bubbles in the lines or boiling or maybe even vapor lock. The car is still running with no thermostat also...

Do I need to have absolutely no fuel in the car whatsoever to change the fuel lines, or is there a way to cut off my tank and just run out what's in the lines? I'm guessing that since my stock in-tank pump is gone, I'll have to run the car dry. I've been trying to keep the tank to 1/4 at most and it's around 1/8 now (assuming the gauge works).


This picture is the car during cold start Saturday morning before I got it towed:

http://www.fquick.com/images/vehicle...jpg?1330350656

After I got the car home I adjusted the carb on Sunday and it ran much better. I first adjusted the curb idle screw and I could see the primary plate closing as I tightened the screw (with the car off). Then I adjusted the other two screws to fully tight and then 1.5 turns out. I started the car up and it went through the cold cycle fine. When I took the choke off, it miraculously kept running and didn't die. My idle was too high, around 2200rpms, so I backed out the curb idle screw until I was at 900rpms in neutral. That's still a little low, but I left it there to make sure it wouldn't stall out again. I ran if for 20 minutes like that and I had no problems.

Good job man. I can't wait to see this thing.