The old “3 clicks” method is not an accurate way to determine if the converter is correctly installed. There MUST be clearance between the converter and flexplate when the trans is bolted to the engine. In a perfect world this would be 1/8″ or .125″ everytime, and you just bolt it up and go. In the real world, we have to check it and make adjustments as necessary.
On a typical GM engine, the flexplate mounting pads are 1″ away from the bellhousing flange area of the block. The converter pads when seated completely will be approximately 1 and 1/8th inch ( 1.125″)recessed into the bellhousing. Seat the converter, then measure the distance from the engine block bellhousing mating flange, to the mounting pad on the flexplate.

Then do the same from the transmission bellhousing mating face, to the converter mounting pads. You should have the converter sitting deeper than the flexplate protrudes from the engine. If so, you can now bolt the transmission to the engine. With the trans bolted to the engine, you should be able to turn the converter freely. Check the distance from the converter to the flexplate with the converter completely seated into the transmission. You should have 1/8″ to 3/16″ clearance. (.125″-.187″) If it is more than 3/16″, you should use flat ground washers to shim between the flexplate and converter.

4L60E= 1.125" from bellhousing to converter pads.

Push the torque converter back into the transmission as far as it will go. Using feeler gauges or calipers measure the gap between the flexplate converter mounting pad and the torque converter mounting pad. If gap distance is between .060" and .187" it is OK to bolt up the torque converter. If the gap is greater than .187" install a .060" flat washer between the torque converter and flexplate.


Seems most legit ?

bruh we posted the same info at the same time

Yeah that's wayyy too precise for me but go for it :lol:

I thought this LS stuff was like legos. What is this measuring nonsense?

5 pin MAF harness came today, thought i would receive my BTR Dampener install tool today as well but it doesn't appear so. Hopefully that shows tmmr along with my Y pipe. So then i can throw the pulley on and figure out belt length.

Coil Harness wrapped in felt wire tape on the individual plug sections, and wire loom across the main section of it. The billet coil brackets run flat across, so i was actually able to run the harness under the bracket pretty much hiding it.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4394/...7817fe35_z.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4344/...f223b67e_z.jpg

Nice and clean, looks good

Thanks, whole time i was doing it i was thinking "wow, one less thing for jersey mike to give me **** about"

This is phenomenal. #Impress.jpg

:kneeslap: I'm in your head! :lol: I gotta copy you on this one I think, Mick!

Very nice. I will need you to swing by and give ol Shamu a wrap job.

So if the inlet on something is say 4.17", should i go with a 4.00" Coupler and stretch it, or go with a 4.25" and clamp her.

Looking to get a silicon coupler for MAF to 92mm TB

I think it's easier to clamp, than it is to stretch since the silicone couplers are cord reinforced it gets pretty difficult

^^ As bear said, harder to stretch the reinforced couplers. I would go a touch bigger and clamp it.

I went bigger

Nice wiring, cut the fuggin blue safety clips :lol:

Am I missing something? 4" = 101.xxx mm
92mm = 3.6xxx
I have a 102 TB with 4" coupler from vibrant along with a 102 MAF and 4" 90
Slides right on no issues at all. If you go to big it will look like the skinny guy that is wearing his chubby brothers jeans with a belt.

Or at least paint them black!

Coming along nicely!

The TB "flap" is 92mm, the outside diameter is 4.15" i believe. OD on the 102 and 92 are the same me thinks

Do not recommend.

Do you recommend painting the injectors black?:lol:

I was fighting with my self to cut the safety clips off the entire time i was doing it and it took all of me to convince myself not to lmao I wasnt sure if they would actualyl be able to shake themselves loose with a cammed motor on solid mounts.

...i guess well find out of they do.

BTR Dampener installer didnt show till yesterday, i guess delay bc the storm? I should have time today to throw that on.

Banjo bolts and washers for brake lines showed as well, along with rear main. So today ill be throwing the brake lines in, double checking all bolts/ball joint nuts and then get the front end on the dolly and motor on the bench to do Rear main and put flexplate on.

Crank pulley is seated. BTR install tool made it a breeze. Dont waste time with any of the rental ones, just spend the $40 and get the LS specific one. I know the bolt isnt in the the pic, but i threw that in there as well.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4356/...07623771_z.jpg

Its nice to have a I beam mounted crane inside as well :mrgreen:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4387/...bd23e55e_z.jpg

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