Don't sweat the exhaust being close. Route it the best you can, it'll be fine.

Im prob going to run it between the motor mount and the block, and hook a right up along the frame rail, and then around the rad to the front were the cooler sits.

I would be much more worried about engine block chafing the rubber lines and spraying hot trans oil on headers than just lines being near the header.

They wouldnt be rubbing against the block, im going to run it between the engine mount and the block (I have a turbo style K member, so engine mounts are tubular) so there is plenty of room. Ill secure it against the mount so there is no movement

That is roughly what the factory lines would do. Just take precaution like smash is suggesting and you'll be fine.

Ok good, rubbing/tearing should be a problem. I was just worried about heat

Heres some pics of roughly were the trans fluid lines would be running. I dont want to secure them in place until the rad.

You can kinda see how close it is to the header. Starter isnt in yet, itll run right over the top of it.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4513/...ec84515c_z.jpg

Under Tubular motor mount and over rack.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4464/...2bd1a2d4_z.jpg


Since i didnt have much time to work on the car yesterday, i decided to tackle something small so i did the wire tuck on the pass fender. Since i have the fender guts cut out i have plenty of room so i will be running the wires along side of the what was removed, as apposed to inside of the well. (wouldnt want the connectors to get crushed or ripped about upon wheely landings!)

This raised 2 more questions. I have 2 unoccupied connectors. 1 male with looks like 1 grey wire 1 white wire, and 1 female with 1 dark green 1 tan wire. Im assuming 1 of them is for the ABS sensors that i will not be using. The other i am not sure. Both of them are on the section of harness that has been on the car, not the engine side of the harness.

And as for the ground that is normally on that shock tower, since im running the wires along the inside of the fender, for the ground i can just grind the paint off to bare metal and throw a nut and bolt threw it to create a ground spot ?

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4464/...cc64a0cc_z.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4462/...8e911f60_z.jpg

I think, that is either AIR/ASR

As far as the trans lines, I believe mine are on the outboard side of the header, I'll look tonight.

Yes you can do that. I'd obviously try and find a bolt that will thread somewhat through the hole vs just bare metal to metal contact.

On the Pass side ? i thought that was driverside bologna

Currently i have a 3/8th nut and bolt threw it. Withe the ground itself against the chassis, and a washer ontop of it to sandwich between the bolt and ground

IDK, I thought on Kirk's car the ASR/TCS motor was PAX side.

Once the starter is in, use zip ties or something to help pull the lines towards the oil pan. I also routed inside of the low oil sensor loom just to help keep them from sliding towards the primaries etc.

Make a ground and make it nice.

It is, bolts up right behind the battery on the strut tower. The first one is definitely a wheel speed sensor.

So snip and heatshrink

Started wiring the EWP today using the harness they sell, which is just 4 wires off a relay.

The relay has 1 blue, 1 black, 1 green, 1 orange wire.

Blue: to blue wire off wp

Black: ground, but there is a black wire off the EWP. Is the EWP itself grounded? Do I run the black wire off the relay to a ground as well the black wire off the EWP to the ground ?

Orange: 12v source, so any recommendations ? Relay is right by fuse box. Can I just run a wire with an eyelit to the same post that the cable that powers the fuse box from the starter runs to? Or is that to much for a small wire

Green: key on source, any one in specific I should pick up off?

I ran the trigger wire off the eng sensor fuse, so if the pump loses power the car loses power. To save the car from overheating. Might not be the best way to do it but that is powered key on position and has worked for both cars so far.

And you don't run a relay or anything? Just trigger wire to the fuse and black wire grounded? That seems super simple, I like.

I run a relay, 12v from battery to the relay and the trigger wire which comes from the engine sensor fuse (key on) just closes the contacts and allows power to the pump. Pump is also grounded with the black wire.

So you ground the pump and the relay separate? As mentioned above, the relay included in the kit is 4 prong. Signal, trigger, 12v, and key ignition. With a fuse in line on the 12v power wire

I used a heavy duty relay, like a ford starting solenoid. Over kill but this is how mine is set up. http://a63.tinypic.com/69hnnn.jpg
Also put a fuse in line from the battery. Don't remember what size I used tho.
My father said the ol school water pumps would draw a lot of amps so I figured these did too, better safe then sorry, didn't trust that cube relay it came with.

Also: Put the fuse as close to the power source as possible, otherwise if you develop a short between the fuse and source, the fuse won't do diddly.

sigh, my battery is all the way in the trunk !

Do you not have a fuse block for crap up front?

The factory one on front DS. Can i just pull power off that stud?

Take out the AIR pump lines, use that fused circuit to feed the EWP.

I got rid of that stuff long ago.

This the the diagram that came with the wire kit.

1. Blue wire to Pump Blue Wire
2. Orange Wire to power post on fuse block
3 Green wire piggyback off any key on fuse
4. Black wire, so i ground the black wire off the pump on its own and the black wire off the relay on its own? Do i splice them together and ground them? wtf


https://www.meziere.com/meziere/medi...6.pdf?ext=.pdf