You better NOT be doing that same rain dance that you pulled off on Racewars!!!

Meats4Streets arrived today. Not my number 1 tire choice, but they were on close out threw my wholesale tire program. $133 per tire for 315 drag radials, i cant complain.

315/35/r17 Toyo Proxes TQ Drag Radials.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/813/2...340b9259_z.jpg

But will they drift?

BLS idk how much more of this drifting peer pressure i can take, im a few words away from a Flipzco order.

Make it go 8's, 9's or 10's then embrace the drift life. Cleetus style.

Thought you had 15” race stars? You have 2 sets of DRs?

The Race stars are work shoes. These will be on the car for normal driving, mounting them on my ZR1 wheels(even though i hate those wheels) so i dont blow threw my Hoosiers driving the car to work and misc during the summer. I didnt want to throw a plain jane summer tire on the car, i want something that wont just turn to smoke if i roll in it off a light lol

Rock those Hoosiers all day, everyday, YOLO... Bro...YOLO lol

While buttoning up the interior stuff i stumbled across a new problem. As you may remember i had some issues with the shift linkage on the car, so i replaced the cable with a brand new GM unit. Put trans itself in N and put shift assembly in N as well, and popped on the new cable.

Runs threw the gears okay, but the button itself is getting stuck down. I pulled the shift knob off and saw the white "stem" was not returning back up as far is it should. So i can pull the car out of part without touching the button. Also it doesnt always pop back up when shifted into gear. So i was able to pull the shifter from the park position, down to 1 and all the way back up to park about 8 out of 10 times. The other 2 it would get caught in R, but still allow me to go from 1,2,D,OD straight into reverse. None of the gear engagements felt that solid either.

I am able to put the car in say N, pull the stem up with pliers, and it will be locked out of going into R as it should. Same with putting it in R, if i pull the stem up with pliers it will function as normal.

So pretty much is there any adjustment in this? It deffinatly feels like the stem is binding and will not freely return to the top as it should.

There a visible spring that's maybe busted?

not that i noticed but could be. I would think if anything the spring is internal. Ill prob pull the upper console back off again today and see

Check the cable running up to steering column for kinks or anything pressing against it.

Cable to steering Column? huh.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/875/4...7b823e8c_z.jpgUntitled by mickey beggs, on Flickr

i havent listened with volume, so if there is any, dont mind the heavy breathing. Im hefty.

Serious question: what happens when you wack the side of shifter stick? Does the white stem (plunger?) pop up?

steering column, brake pedal, potato, tomato,

Lube? Works for me when my little white stick causes friction going in and out.

That is a pretty good idea, i have read that its pretty easy to bend the stick itself. Maybe i bent it.

:lol: I applied some liquid graphite, as it was the only thing i had that was safe for use on plastic, didnt make an immediate impact, but ill check again today.

I'm serious. While the shift plunger is stuck in its depressed state, give the side of the stick a smack or two with the palm of your hand. Report back.

I was being genuine when i said it was a good idea !

I'd use the lube.

http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...8Ww6ZrMx8A.jpg

It is time

After messing around with it a bit yesterday i came to the conclusion it was a bit bend, so i messed with it using a pair of channel locks and got it all situated. Works perfect.

TQ Arm left MWC last night, so it should be here for weekend install.

Almost had it...
 

Got this fine specimen from UPS...

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/786/4...518d5791_z.jpg

aaand it doesnt fit. :nick::nick::nick:

But its really my own fault. I have UMI 3 point SFCs on the car, so they bolt in the middle the same spot as the TQ arm. In order to have clearance for the true duals, i have to "sandwich" the TQ arm mount between the chassis and the SFCs. Even with the TQ arm mount flat against the body it is a tight clear for the exhaust.

However, the driver side of the TD X member has a very short flange to bolt. While the driver side has a large one. As you'll see below.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/808/4...758e0395_z.jpg

the SCFs have larger plate, like the one of the pass side of the TQ arm mount, on both sides. So i actually cant slide the TQ arm under the SFC due to the TQ arm plate being to "shallow"

And i know you guys are prob just thinking, just bolt it on top of the SFCs instead of sandwiching it between... cant, then it doesnt clear the exhaust

Its hard to explain so ill grab some pics later. Maybe you guys can help brainstorm a solution.

Remove SFC, insert into storage closet for later use, aka never. They are added weight, and not needed for the mods you have. Your 10 bolt will break before your car will twist from lack of sub frame connectors. Not taking a shot at your 10 bolt just giving my opinion. If you wanna keep the car from twisting put a cage in it. Again just my 2 cents. Others may have better ideas and different opinions.