Pulled it out of the garage and hosed the saw dust/regular dust off.

Deff going to run into some ground clearance issues with the true duals + coil overs i think. obviously right now isnt at ride height, but i still think im gunna be in trouble. We shall see.


Now i have room to give this place a nice cleaning. That floor coating is less than 3 years old !

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/882/4...8157733f_z.jpg

More pics just cus.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/902/4...d2222e9e_z.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/889/4...36c43953_z.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/897/4...3b75eb0e_z.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1755/...bccd04b8_z.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1745/...75e3735d_z.jpg

Looks damned good.

This looks too nice for a Beggs build :wink:

Sounds like idle rpm is a bit high for the cam to compensate for low timing or poor idle controls pulling timing. Not sure if you're having the same issue but my TC was registering false knock and triggering the idle controls. The knock threshold was increased in hptuners and that fixed some of the breakup.

das loowww

Looking good beggerz

**** yeah

Gonna look badass that low with the drag pack on there.

America rejoices seeing the Beggsmobile move under it's own power on MDW. :usa:

I thought it was fitting as well :mrgreen:

finishing up gauge install and need to pull some power. 1 key on power source, 1 lights on power source.

Off the top of anyones head, who knows which fuse i can tap into on the interior fuse box for each

Brown wire off of the headlamp switch is parking light power. Tap into that for illuminati.

Fuse 9 GAUGES is hot in Run, Bulb Test, and Start.

Fuse 2 Turn B/U is hot in Run.

Not sure preference but either will be off with key off.

Will go for that today. once my wideband is up and running, street tune time.

Almost ready for the next Ratchet Friday burnout contest.

Mistakes have been made.

Really planned on wrapping up my gauge install but i ran into a snag. I pulled power from were Adam suggested, but i deff messed up somewhere.

-Grounds for both gauge lighting and gauge itself and ran to ground block under the hood.

-Power for gauge lights i tapped into the brown wire going into the back of the headlight switch. There were a few wires back there that were ranges of brown to tan so i tapped into the brownest of brown. However, that wire was running into the white 4(maybe 5 pin) connector on the back of the switch. And im pretty sure thats just for the dimmer.

-Power for the guages itself i used one of these joints...

http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server50...g?t=1399575157

...and T-ed in to the GAUGES fuse. Now this is were im confused. The gauges deff have power, bc soon as i turn the key on the needle on the autometer gauges snaps up to 0 from its off post. To me, that means the gauge is in working order. Since i wont be able to tell for sure until i can get the car moving around to get a real reading. However, no action from the wideband.

Now this is were it gets crazy.

Its time for dinner so i clean up, and get ready to head inside. Long story short, somehow i set the alarm on the car off(factory alarm) and all the lights start blinking and horn going off. while this is happening, the gauges are lighting up AND the wideband screen is on !

Lighting up as in flashing with the alarm? Post up the gauges you have/wiring diagrams.

Yes.

Heres the wiring for the autometer gauges i have. (twist in lights)

https://lib.americanmuscle.com/files/guide-13503-02.jpg

Here is link to directions for the AEM gauge

http://aemelectronics.com/files/inst...GO%20Gauge.pdf

What gauges are coming up off of their posts? Does it seem like they are at their initial reading point? So really we are concerned with wideband screen not coming on? I'd like to see that diagram and hear what you connected things to. Was the screen flashing or solid on?

It seems like the needle gauges are working correctly and illuminating when the lights are turned on, assuming you tested by turning on the headlight switch. Now just need to verify what wideband is doing and what wiring you did.

I do believe the Autometer gauges are set up right signal wise. They just don’t have any illumination, however they illuminate if the car alarm is going off. For the Illumination of these, ground goes to ground block under hood. Power goes to T-tap off the brown wire going into the white connector on the back of the headlamp switch. But I’m pretty sure that white connector is for just the dimmer portion of the switch. I think I quick wire change will fix this problem. I’m pretty sure the dome lights flash when the alarm goes off, so I think the wire I’m tapped into is dome light on only power lol

Wideband has 2 connectors on back. 1 is larger, that is a complete harness already and plugs to the supplied exhaust sensor.

The other smaller sensor is 1 wires. power, ground and then 2 information wires that are only used for data pulling or something.

Ground goes to same ground under hood.

Power wire goes to GAUGES fuse via Fuse port tap like pictured above. Gauge is LED and runs bother gauge power and light power off same wire

Not sure if it matters but some LEDs simply won't like a rheostat style dimmer. Meaning they need a minimum voltage/amp to even light up. Anything below that threshold and they will turn off.

Yeah I would try adjusting the dimmer to see if anything changes like bls is implying.

Headlamp switch should be 10 pin, 3 on the top and 7 on bottom. If you unplug the connector and look at the pin side, the top right pin would be the brown wire that feeds the parking lamps. There should be two pins to the right of the locking tab for the connector. There should be a brown wire off of the 4 pin dimmer switch too, its the far right when looking at the pin side tab up.

Mistakes of mistakes were made.

So yesterday i had some time to fiddle with the car. Tried the dimmer light, nothing. Pulled the switch and tapped into the wire adam suggested, still nothing.

Grew frustrated and decided to start over. Pulled all the gauges and wiring out, only leaving the 2 ground wires there to pick up again during reinstall.

I pulled the car back into the garage last night, and i realized something. I do not have any "backlight" on the gauges. The cluster itself and the screen work, but there is no working light. Nor do the lights in the mirror come on when i open the door(dome light does)

If i was tapped into that circuit, and it wasnt even working in the first place, that could be the answer to my problems.

:rofl: sum bitch

Did ya check fuses??

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1756/...2be5bf9e_z.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1753/...ffc67e83_z.jpg

That is... amazing. Holy crap.

Nice.

**** yeah

Legit

https://i.imgflip.com/m8n4m.gif