Random mods that won't make me any faster, go go go
Never liked the raked 4x4 look I have with 28s in the rear, see below https://i.imgur.com/ccpQ31Wl.jpg Installed 1.25 drop BMR springs https://i.imgur.com/LQ5RTxxl.jpg Def picked up the front with the new rear squat https://i.imgur.com/Mb7UKXhl.jpg And since I had the "stock" holley screen laying around, moar data display! https://i.imgur.com/aqShhzUl.jpg |
I like that gap in the rear.
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Working car status? Better fix that.
Time to fix something that wasn't broke. https://i.imgur.com/f23nELel.jpg Out with the old https://i.imgur.com/ahlyNGCl.jpg In with the new https://i.imgur.com/Y7MlQ3Vl.jpg Proof of concept Goal is to make a soft start cooling fan setup. Replacing the old mechanical relays with new solid state relays which allow for PWM driving. Still playing with the driving frequency ( you can hear that grind noise in video of fan not liking the low frequency) Currently just using a TPS vs RPM 2D table with duty cycle filling it. End goal will be a slow soft start as engine temps rise, versus the old sudden fan on current inrush. Holley is very cool stuff for those of us who can't leave anything alone. :rofl::rofl: |
Surely unnecessary modifications of your cooling system won’t increase the likelihood of an overheat....
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Does something like this exist off the shelf for the Holley or is this something you could look to offer for monies to the market?
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But to answer the question, no nothing is plug and play yet |
It seems like it will work in theory. it is a little beyond my understanding at this point, so I am curious to learn how it works for you; I like learning this stuff
it has been a while, and I didn't scroll back to read, but back to that overheating issue, do you think there is any chance that the lower radiator hose is sucking itself shut? do you have a coil spring in it? Sorry if this has been covered prior. |
I've been using a DCC controller for years. Trouble free, works great. I'm running 4th gen fans, not sure I've ever heard them on full speed.
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Nah overheating was cause idiot behind the wheel let it run on 3qt of oil.
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Got another not so fun but cool none the less part in today. Cover up for some future, "clearancing" :lol:
https://i.imgur.com/20djt0Xl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/un7mDR6l.jpg https://i.imgur.com/1jVqeYGl.jpg Tired of my torque arm smacking into the body so chop chop time, then 3m seam seal this guy to car to cover hole. Ref https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/13...g?v=1601316593 |
Good time to add a trap door.
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Well, managed to blow both SSR bricks today, so back to the drawing board. :|
Ordered two more and gonna do some more research on what went wrong. Not sure if I was hitting em with too much or too little frequency. |
What's the amp rating on those SSRs, also they need heat sinks.
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I think lack of flyback protection killed em, so that was added and I'll wait for the new ones to test out. Going to leave frequency lower |
Those relays may not be able to handle the PWM. The on/off of the fan is going to cause some spikes in power draw until they get into a certain speed.
The C6 PWM fan pulls 60 amps at full power. You might want to double up on the relay to handle more peak current |
Current fans claim 20amp draw. I figured a 40amp switch would suffice
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The inrush current on a brushed fan may be more than 40 amp though. It's just a though as to why they failed
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Installed new SSR's today, and wired em to be switching the negative side of fan, versus previously switching the hot side. Also made sure fly back diodes were in.
So far so good, pretty cool to see em slow start at 25% then up to 100% over a few degrees. |
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smash, how are you running you 2 step on a momentary button? Is it a legit regular 2 step or is it a transbrake?
depending on the answer, more questions en route. |
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1) Flip master arm switch 2) Hold brake pedal and push button (their in series) [quicker to leave off button but adds safety of also needing brake to engage] 3) Two step, engage 4) brap brap brap brap noises |
Video of said 2 step isn't loading. Please re-upload and share.
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