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wow...that was hilarious, how old are you anyway? |
Oh god, please just stfu about this **** already. For the record...I destroyed my LT1 rear with just a CAI/Catback on the street at 60k miles...whats your ****ing point?
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2. .6 tenths is a lot at the track...and alex's car is a lot faster than 12.8 |
alex's car is set up a handling car.. that's why his et is higher with his decent mph.
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I just love the fact that everyone mods the hell out of their cars and then says they need to take it easy because of the rear. Why not start with the rear first for once and not worry about it blowing up? What good is all that power if you can't use all of it? I want answers!
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Its so funny you talk Down on lt1 cars when you run the same times as my 5000 pound truck. Just stfu
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and the same times as my barely modded 87 FORD ran
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ET doesn't mean crap, look at his trap speed.
I don't understand the LS1 attitude, a lot of people have it. I loved my LS motors but for Christ sake, fast is fast regardless if it's a Gen 1 SBC, LTx or LSx |
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Going faster is more fun.
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ill upgrade my rear when the stock one breaks...which wont be long once that s/c goes on
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I didn't upgrade my rear because I have been to the drag strip less than once in my life, and if the rear end did let go, I'd honestly just get a used 10bolt. A loaded 12-bolt or 9" approaches 3k almost, no? If you find yourself at the strip a decent bit, I agree... just buy the damn thing and get it over with :D
-J |
A set of Moser Axels
A102806 APPLICATION: Fits 1993-newer Camaro and Trans Am W/4-Channel ABS 10 Bolt Chevy rear 28 spline, 32" Long Diag. $290 Pair I'm not telling everyone to upgrade their rear, I am just saying to all the people who say it or write it in their sigs. "13.1 but I was spinning" or "12.2, it would have been an 11 but I didn't want to break anything" < those are just fake examples Whatever your slip says is how fast you went, END OF STORY. It is expensive to do all these mods, but don't complain about the fact that it could be faster if this or if that. I don't have a lot of money but I took my time and did it right. I can go to the track everyday if I wanted and know that I have the slimmest chance of breaking a part because I put the best parts I could in it. No one can promise their car will stay together, the faster you go the more likely you will break something, but thats all part of the game. |
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All kidding aside though, I agree, if you're into dragging your car, put some parts in so that you don't have to read The Bible everytime you make a single pass on the car. Those excuses aren't far from what you might hear though... If it doesn't fit, force it. If it breaks, upgrade it 8-) It is a game and you gotta pay to play :mrgreen: Just my $.02.... |
its a little thing we call "ricer excuses"
i dont baby my car when i take it to the track...if the clutch slips, it slips....if the rear blows into a million pieces, so be it though, my times WOULD be better if my clutch wasnt slipping...but im not claiming any times, it ran what it ran |
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The point is, unless you buy a complete rear that just bolts right in, you can build one that doesn't cost over $2k.
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86ta used this somewhere else but I will use it here.
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j5...rricersky1.jpg |
OK Alex, when I get the LT1 road worth I'll race you....
Actually it is, I need to get the damn thing inspected .. Lol |
Wow, this went off topic fast.
Since I have nothing to add to the LT1 vs. LS1 debate, I'll throw this out there. The LO3 is the greatest engine GM ever made. |
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