Looks like driver side should be Purple with white stripe and passenger should be solid purple...amirite

Yup

Umm, no. Ride height should always be measured from the middle of the wheel, the spindle to the fender, not from the ground.

Technically he said from bottom of wheel edge, not ground so tire smash isn't effecting measurement.

Technically the fender heights can vary. I'm sure its slight but its not the truest measurement.....If it matters that much....

So o2s were correct. Also threw on all new clamps(large 3” stainless band style) on all the slip joins from the collectors all the way back to the over axle pipe. So no more exhaust leak.

However. Same crap with wideband. So I’m kind of at wits end here.

On the positive side, tmmr, barring any sort of failure, we will be street tuning after work.

Saturday was another day of Trial and Error with the tuner.

First, for the hell of it we re-uploaded Kirks tune into the PCM and tried to get it to go. Ran, but did not run any more well than it was. So moved on.

The car has GTP injectors in it, so he double checked his numbers and then we compared them to some numbers provided by other people that have used the same injectors with LS1 fuel system, and they were spot on.

We are pretty sure the wideband itself is all set up correctly, but there is just a issue with the car/tune.

While doing all this, we noticed the alternator wasnt charging at all pretty much. So much so that i had to have the car connected to the jump box bc it wouldnt have enough juice to start after reloading files. So a new alternator is on the way.

After trying a ton of different crap. Adding fuel, pulling fuel, No MAF, less maff influence, different files of cam only LS cars he had on his computer, we both kinda came to the conclusion that there is an issue with a component. Me, the tuner, and my entire cast of characters that were there were leaning towards it being 2-3 injectors that are peeing in my cereal.

Next Move: toss the stock injectors back in, start from a known good constant.

So i hit up mike, whom pointed me to Keith, who had his stock injectors. Took a quick ride up to him and grabbed them. (BONUS CONTENT: Me and my brother stopped at a bar called The shepherd and knucklehead in North Haledon, great beer selection and food) So today after work ill be tossing in the injectors.

As some of you may remember, i previously swapped in the stock injectors a few months back when i was running into misfire/backfire issues. When we swapped them in it did indeed make the issue a smidgen better. But it didnt fix it. So i swapped back to the GTPs continued to diag. Ended up being the pushrods. So im kinda grasping at how when i swapped to stock injectors it helped a little, and im only a little off currently, so hopefully that solves it. Then i can order some brand new injectors and we can hit the dyno.

BLS bought up a good point to, with the electrical system barely getting any power it could have an effect on the ignition/pcm/injectors ect.

TL;DR- Alternator needs replacing. Injectors are shot... or are they ???

My car would run completely different with a dead alternator.

You can have the tuner mess with the voltage offset parameters but I would highly advise starting with a solid working electrical system.

This. Gotta have a solid electrical system first.

Sheps a good spot (sister location in Hoboken fyi). Glad you were able to get them; hope they help.

Are you sure the alternator isn't charging? Because the battery starts the car and sitting there with the key on to tune is depleting the reserve but if its not 20+ minutes to every 2 of running, I would lean that direction....You should see about 14.7 volts at a decent idle assuming you don't have yours set at 500 for all them chop chop PAH! Battery resting should settle at about 12.5 and while cranking, no less than 10 volts but closer to 10.5 and up is best.

Low voltage will screw with the way the injectors fire, and some are more susceptible to low voltage issues than others. Get the charging system in line first!

Can you run it off jumper cables to your truck just to see if voltage is definitely your problem?

Pulled alternator off same day anyway so didnt ever check. But took to 2 different autobones to run it on the testing bench and it failed at both locations. Coaxed them into testing a brand new alternator just to prove to me it wasn't a rigged machine for auto fails.

Didnt run it off my truck, just left the jump box on the batt. Once we did so the car idled much better and started a hell of a lot easier. So i dont think the voltage issue is the problem, more of something that just had to be fixed.


Stock injectors were put in last night, alternator arrived today. Plan of attack is toss in tonight.

So, is it better?

I have an alternator if you want it.

its a cheap LS1 from advanced that I picked up and ran for a little before i realized anything over 7k rpm it stopped charging so i had to switch to a higher amp one.

Unaware. The new alternator has some weird i guess cooling duct on the back of it. like so..

https://cdn7.bigcommerce.com/s-35fn7...342346.jpg?c=2

That would clear when it was just bolted it, but i could not adjust the mount to get tension on the belt(i have just a alt to balancer belt, no tensioner.) due to clearance.

Luckily when i crawled back under i saw it was hitting the hardlines that are on the steering rack were they bend up and go into by were the pump lines come in. The car doesnt have PS either, so i threw some vice grips on the line that was hitting and bent it until the alternator cleared and slid back and forth in the adjustment bracket freely.

By this time it was completed it was like 10pm. I didnt want to play the song of my backfiring people that late on the weekday.

Crap, i wish you offered 2 days ago i would have taken it !

Well?

Sorry !

Was advised by tuner to wait for him to log a stock injector file in before starting.

Alright, so tuner came by today again and we made some progress... ...on figuring out what’s wrong.


With the stock, known good injectors it was still running like crap. We loaded in some tunes he had from other A4 LS cars with similar set ups just to see, and nothing. Running like butt, and still nothing reading on the wideband.

So next we decided to shut off injectors 1 by 1 with the HP tuners, and boy did it get funky. We did it in order, 1-8.

Shut 1 - no difference
Shut 2- engine began to die
Shut 3- nothin
Shut 4- engine began to die
Shut 5- nothin
Shut 6- begins to die
Shut 7- nothin
Shut 8- begins to die.


You see what’s up here ? HP tuners doesn’t let you shut off more than 1 at a time apparently, so I unplugged all of bank 1 sensors, 1 by 1, until there was NO INJECTORS plugged in on the driver side, and it didn’t change the engine running condition 1 bit. Headed to the passenger side, soon as I unplugged an injector it began to die.

All my driver side injectors are dead. Which explains why my wideband is only reading lean! Also explains why I burnt my hands unplugging the passenger side injectors, but the driver side was just radiant heat.

That leaves me with A. Harness is messed up or B. PCM is messed up. Amirite?

almost like it's bank injection lol.

I'd blame the harness first. trace that thing

On LTX stuff you have a fuse for each bank of injectors. Maybe start there?

Should be a hot feed to the bank and PCM grounds each injector to fire. My guess is you didn't mess up 8 grounds to PCM, so the hot lead being suspect is a better start.

Yup good call

Are you doubting me.

Yes.