I was not as motivated today to do anything. Made up my regulator-to-rail fuel line and my brake booster line.

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/r...818_130924.jpg
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/r...818_130934.jpg

I also got my Electronic Counter Measures mounted on the firewall over where the blower motor would be. Then I threw the fender on after to see how it looks. Hidden pretty well and the hood hinge should help hide it more once everything is back together

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/r...818_161109.jpg
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/r...818_161232.jpg

Are you going to trim the harness?

IDK Bear, this picture strengthens my position on the PCV line!

It's not done yet. I'll have a draid over it to hide it when I am satisfied with it.

Pick! Pick! Pick! You won't see it from your house.

But...I just did!:-P

:facepalm: Should I take the picture down? Would that make you feel better? :rofl:

So when's first start? :)

End of the weekend? I took a few days off from work to get as much done as possible. I should be able to get all the points completed that I need for starting, but tuning out the VATS and other may hold me from starting it though. I have HP Tuners, but I haven't messed with it at all since I got it a few years ago.

You can use resistors to disable vats while you research the tuning. Search for it on ls1tech

im pretty sure vats is just an option box you click in the one table on hp tuners. on or off. once the vin is registered, it should be no more that 10 min to copy the tune, modify it, and rewrite it onto the pcm.

edit: I just went through my hp tuners. The option box is under the "system" menu, under the "general" tab(next to the "fans" tab). Then its under the heading "security". The options are "serial", "PWM", or None. (stock f body is PWM) "None" should turn it off.

I have to change the injector constant too at the very least since i am using a car manifold and car (F-body injectors)

Thanks, that will be helpful but I have read of other people getting it disabled and then it comes back there is more than one place where it needs to be disabled? Also, I have an 0411 Truck ECM too.

When I had the '95 T/A (yes, I know it may be different by year) there was something that needed to be turned off in the PCM and also a wire that needed to be jumpered to bypass a relay connection to completely disable VATS. Clicking the checkbox in HPTunas will only disable part of it.

I think with the LSx it is only necessary in the ECM, and I think I know what you're talking about. The VATS would also ground the relay for the starter enable, you had to disable in the ECM and then bypass the VATS module connected on the starter relay inside the car. Since I dont have that, I dont have to worry about it

I got a few things done today. I finished up the fuel lines, I just have to tighten up a few fittings underneath the car and then I can test for leaks.

Also, here is my take on the steam tube issue, Most people drill and tap a place on the water pump, which I never thought was a good idea, if your water pump fails on a trip you can't just change it on the fly. Instead I decided to tap the water outlet and plumb in the fitting there.

Up top under thethrottle body area
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/r...822_141320.jpg

This is what I did underneath
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/r...822_141328.jpg

It is hardly even visible once everything is all there in the engine compartment. I also went with the pinch clamps because I didnt like the normal options for really small hose like that. The tube is only 3/16"


I also got the fittings sorted and installed for my oil pressure sender. I wound up mounting it behind the intake manifold. I wish Autometer didnt have such a huge sender for the short sweep gauges.

Tomorrow should be filling the engine with oil and cranking to see if I get oil pressure

I found the post where someone put water in the Holley oil pan, Here. The holley pan held about 4 quarts of water, and the JZ Motorworks pan has a little less capacity. The Holley is rated to hold 5 quarts, so I should be able to "overfill" the pan to 5 quarts without worrying.

Got a little more done today. I got the wiring done, but real quick and dirty like, it looks like complete crap.

I got all the way up to priming the fuel system, then I realized I plumbed my regulator wrong so I have to figure out what I am going to do to fix with what I have. I think it is going to take some crazy tubing magic to make it work and its going to look terrible.

I was stuck in my own head all daiye (spelling reference?) and I am going to a friends house for a while, otherwise I would stick it out and keep at it.

I at least feel like I am close to trying to start this now.

Re-did my fuel lines and set my fuel pressure. I downloaded HP Tuners and hopefully turned off and set what I needed to properly. Then I proceeded to start the engine, took a few seconds at first when I was cranking the first time. Scared the crap out of me since I had the garage door closed.

Now I have to block off the two vacuum leaks, one is the brake booster and there is another port on the side of the intake manifold behind the throttle body on the RH side. After I get that sorted, I need to do do the re-learn for the cam and crank sensors. The GM book says I need a scan tool to do that, do I need a special tool to do that? Or can I get it done with HP Tuners or a generic scan tool?

Now I need an air filter, another few elbows once I get the whole front end back on. Also need a belt, PS fluid, a different lower radiator hose and coolant. That SHOULD be close to the last of the items I need to buy. I also decided that I am going to put the stock brakes back on the car for now. I already bead blasted the calipers and painted them, I now have to take the rotors off the spindles so I can clean and paint everything and get it back on the car.

Stretch goal is to have the car back together and drivable for the September meet. With a little extra time put in after work I think that shouldn't be too hard in the time I have to work with before then.

Cool brah.

I downloaded a stock tune for a manual trans F-body and compared against my auto trans ECM. Looks like I need to make quite a few more changes to the ECM to make them match. Played around with matching the config here at work today, will upload when I get home tonight

I likely missed this but why did you download a tune for a manual Fbody and not an auto fbody?

I have an 0411 PCM that came with/for this engine. The engine is from a 2001 Silverado with an auto, so I have basically just changed the items in the pcm that I need to start it, and since I used a car intake and injectors the constant for them. I wasn't sure what I needed to do to make it work OK for a manual transmission.

Oh and I turned off all the DTC's related to stuff I wont have, rear O2's, air injection, EGR, etc

Thanks to the good Folk at JS Performance, it seems I shouldn't need to do a re-learn even though I changed my cam and crank sensor.

This is good news

Why not just upload the M6 tune and get rid of the truck tune completely?

A true M6 tune will be very different from an auto..

I may wind up doing that in the long run but for now I am going to leave it this way. I figured shutting all the Auto stuff off is easier than putting in the tables from the 4.8 into the 5.7 tune. I'll screw with it all in time, even if I keep the OBDII connector where it is, it is close to the passenger side door, so I can put the HP tuners cable through the window (or my old grommet from when I had the Holley system in the car) and mess with it on the fly.



Picked up my vacuum caps on the way home from work. I think I'll go out there and see if it runs any better today.

HPtunes doesn't let you adjust on the fly, tis no XFI :lol: