twin 38mm

I can see the head lines on LS1 tech now

“New Jersey man sends first LS motor into orbit”

"LS1 for sale, low miles, never abused."

"Aftermarket window in block- rare!"

Let me know when you want to buy my gen 4 5.3, ~215k miles on it, which means the bearings and ring gaps are perfectly seasoned for boost

Im gunna do my best to send the motor as high into the sky as i can this year while it still being attached to the car

Serious note, who's kit did you end up with?

none. car sits exact same way it did in November besides a few small changes.


I aint scared of Paul Bunyan or his blue unicorn

i am disappoint.

Anyone have/have access to the alignment tool to do a rear main on the LS?

I just let the seal kind of find it's center on the crank and the oil pan installed before having any of the rear cover fasteners put in. I would put the screws in like 90% of the way, install the pan, make sure everything lined up, then slowly set the screws to the surface, then torqued.

Pan is on and not being removed. Will be doing this in car not on a stand sadly lol

Should still work like I suggested, unless you're not pulling the rear cover at all

I did my rear main on the gto when I did the clutch. Motor was still in car. I changed out the whole rear cover with a new seal already in it. Only have to remove the rear two pan bolts, not drop the pan. All the info I found online said that was the best way. No issues since so I'd recommend it. The perimeter bolts get tightened first, then the 2 pan bolts last. I think I did a drop of rtv at the corners of block/pan/cover.

Like these guys, I didn't use any of the alignment tools and my motor was on a stand.

I followed whatever directions were in this book- https://www.amazon.com/How-Rebuild-L.../dp/193249460X

Which I can dig out tonight and find their instructions for lining everything up, if you're interested.

recall what brand it was?

Dont want to do the entire cover ? they come preinstalled and not much more than a seal

but i do have the tool from saccity corvette or whatever it was

i didnt know they came installed in the cover lol i will go with that

yea, they come with the metal cover, perimeter gasket, all the bolts and the rear main installed. Think it was like 60-80$ at whatever price level they gave it to me at.

Usually in stock to at most GM dealers since it is still used

I got my rear cover from some gm dealer on ebay I believe. And yes, like he said the ear main seal is preinstalled.

Ill give chevy a call guys, thanks !

The seal is really easy to change though, lol. It took me minutes once the cover was off. Getting the old one out was the most "difficult" part

So as you guys know, finally bit the bullet and started to do the rear main.

Thursday night i pulled the starter, the driveshaft, and started to drain the trans out to make it a bit easier to handle. plus, time to change the fluid anyway. This is were the fun begins.... :facepalm:

Let the tailshaft drain out into one of them oil change drip pan, after that stopped it slid back under the car and started to pull the pan bolts. Slid a large plastic tub under it to catch everything. Took out the final pan bolt and guided the pan down into the tub, getting late anyway so im gunna let it drain over night.

Fast forward to last night after sitting in traffic for 40 mins on my normal 7 min commute home bc people forget how to drive in the rain... trans fluid is EVERYWHERE. Coming out both sides of the car, coming out the back of the car, a damn mess. I toss some pig mats on the ground and flop myself under the car. Theres a minimal amount of fluid in the container... damn thing had a crack in the corner i didnt notice. :facepalm::facepalm:

Cleanup took about 30 mins. A garbage bag worth of pig mats, 3 cans of brakeclean, and a roll of paper towels later, back under the car to get going.

o2 sensors and wideband out to prob, dip stick out no prob, on to the torque converter bolts.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...c5fcd2de_c.jpg

YEAH. NOT GOOD. 2 of the 3 were like this. Finger tight. i honestly think the only thing that kept them in was they didnt have room to back out completely. One was tight as it should be.

Im not really sure what happened here. They bolts are ARP, and there is still some of ARP lube on the threads too. Kirk referenced the extension required to tighten them could have effected the torque. Im going to grab a new set just to be safe.

Moving past that, i started on the trans bolts. Removed the trans mount X member bolts, trans dropped about 1/4 inch... thanks solid mounts, this is gunna be fun.

Slid trans jack under, going to tackle this tomorrow. (today)

To be honest, I always blue-locktite torque converter bolts on top of proper torque to avoid this sort of nonsense. There's a ton of vibration and torque on those particular bolts.

Did it egg out the flexplate?