Is it just temp or does it sense friction material/imminent doom?

Its a 60, it always senses imminent doom

can’t wait to see that 60E dip into the 9s... doesn’t matter what the bung reads... as longs as that slip reads 9.xx

if i lay off the quarantine snacks and shove some broccoli in my mouth maybe itll read 9.8x

Better hope you can get it to 60ft 1.2-1.3 area

Went 1.40 not spraying out the hole, so if need be ill have to turn off the progressive

I am assuming you are at the limits RPM/jet size wise, so gotta make up that time in the 60.

Or blow the 10 bolt.

RPMs yes. Jets wise im at the limit where i think i can run it safely for a long period of time. I think it'll be fine at 200, but something will let go eventually. But im not financially prepped for that yet. Also, the dude who designed the cam told me to stay at 150. Not sure why, but oh well.

Redid the valve covers in VHT wrinkle black after welding on the bungs, love this finish.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...55eec8e2_c.jpg

Pic looks much closer than it really is, but there is room for a hose to pass by the injector on the pass side.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...0e697d49_c.jpg

and room right under the fuel line feed on the driver side. These hoses are going to go to a Y manifold and then into the TB. Just cant install all the hoses and stuff now bc i cant get to the top trans bolts with the valve covers on.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...15e3b73f_c.jpg

Also upgraded the factory steam vent set up to black AN set up to match the rest of the stuff on the car.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...30dc03f3_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...4e6a42e6_c.jpg

unfortunately the AN line from the vent to rad is smaller than the bung on the rad. So for now i have to run a reducer off the rad. Ordered up the correct barb to weld on the rad, will tackle that next time the rad is out. The reducer is fine for now.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...7874bf2f_c.jpg

Found some beautiful spin art thanks to ARP lube on the flex plate. love me some art.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...88b6dd27_c.jpg

Pulled flex plate to see rear main, no real mess. Deff a film off oil all over it. and you can see that notch at the bottom of the seal itself is filled with oil. Not a mess of oil, but then again the car hasnt ran since December or so.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...f4c13340_c.jpg

Currently waiting for a new flex plate, then reinstall shenz

Loving the -an work

What make are those head steam tube adapters?

FASSTER seller on ebay. I go to him for all my **** and the anode finish holds up really well to wrenches compared to general summit/jegs fittings

Yup, FASSTER LLC, I go to him for all my stuff as well. Off Kirks recommendation. He’s great to work with and does custom lengths and what not for whatever you need.

Thanks. I will look into them

huzzah, new flex plate from GM has arrived.

Is it done?

not yet, been messing with the skittle so can sell that

skittle has been sold. back to working on the Hulkbuster

How fast where you ramping your nitrous in?

1 second ramp in once it is above 4k rpm was the fastest we got to i believe.

Better get that ramp faster, sub half a sec area

costly mistake is costly.

Got the trans back, started tossing things back in. like the driveshaft and starter. only to roll over and get stabbed in the back by something.

what was that something? the an fittings for the trans cooler lines. completely forgot to put them on before the trans went up.

Hole saw the tunnel. You wont.

Sawzall the tunnel off for a convenient trans trap door mod.