oil pump
 

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...Picture067.jpg

Do i take the thing under the plastic off, or do I have to order a new oilpump? :-x

where does a windage tray go??? lol

You know that $20 manual you were offered would have showed you the pil pump stuff. LOL

You mean the collar for the extension rod that goes to the distributor? New pump usually comes with one, IIRC.

Edit: All that work, engine on bench, a new oil pump is a good idea anyway.

I actually found it. I had to ravage through the box the oil pump was in and it was wrapped in paper that was cushoning the oil pump.

My neighbor said If somethings not welded I should have it welded for the extra safety, is this the thing he might have been talking about? lol. but yeah I found it and its on. it came with a stud a spacer and a nut, but I just used the bolt that came off the old one, is that ok?

WF-

Is that an M55HV, or a Melling select? Did it come with a warning on it??

You should tack weld the pickup to the pump body.

wich ones the pick up?

The thing that sticks out of the pump that appears to sit on the bottom of the pan. There is a tube from the pump to the pick up. That tube is often tack welded into place.

Set the pickup to oil pan clearance before, you weld it. Or, before you have it welded.

so ill just want the small peice welded? and not the biger peice welded to the little? or both?

what about windage trays?

Weld the pickup to the main body of the pump. Where they fit together. Windage trays usually bolt to the main studs.

Matt, what they are telling you to weld is the U-shaped tube to the main body of the pump, so it doesn't fall off (which can happen sometimes) causing you to lose all oil pressure.

It looks like the pickup tube on the new pump is already welded.

Answer WildBill's question about the model.

- Justin

its a m55156 yes it had a warning

Just out of curiosity, how is the warning worded?

- Justin

Here is a post I did on another board.

hmmmm....maybe Ill have to take a look at my reciepts for stuff, because I think I may have one of those pumps in that 327...

Im sending this oil pump back, What oil pump should I get to replace this?

Matt, you REALLY need to go buy a book about building a SBC as there are many things you need to do and check while assembling an engine. As an example you don't want to just bolt on an oil pump and be done.

1) check the distance between the bottom of the oil pump to the bottom of the Pick-up.

2) Tack weld the tube to the pump.

3) Lube/Gease the pump so it primes quickly

4) Verify the right pressure sping is being used

Oil is the life blood of the engine! Anything not done properly has the potential to destroy the engine or damage allot of your new parts! You really shouldn't be undertaking a project this big without the guidance of a quality instruction manual or someone there that has done this before. Asking question over the internet leaves you wide open for missed critcal information!

Hey LOOK at the picture you can see the pickup is already welded to the pump and if i am not mistaken the pump you have is the 55 HV which is the High volumn corect length for a stock pan install ??? -- if you want to know how to check it ask me i will give you easy understandable directions --- and you can not install a high vol pump with the plastic pump drive shaft sleeve -- you will have to buy a new shaft with the steel sleeve attached to it -- your getting their but slow -- the pump is ok i did tell you a Z 28 pump was a better deal but than again i am only doing this 40 years so what do i know -- jz

melling oil pump info...
here

Can you send me a link with everything you recommend? a nice strong oil pump that wont grenade my motor..

As stated above, look into the Melling Select pumps, they use the old casting design, and many come with a new oil pump driveshaft as well....

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...10002_80736_-1

- Justin

it says for 8 inch deep pan, get this, my pan is a little bit bigger then 8 inches will i be fine?

dont look at that -- what you do is bolt the pump on to the main cap and level the motor squaire front to back and side to side ( on AN engine stand its not so diff ) measure from the oil pan rail ( the pan bolts to the rail ) to the bottom of the screen plus the compressed distance of the gasket the gasket will loose .012 thousands when bolted -- if its .035 thick than less 12 the overall height you get will be the distance from the screen to the bottom of the pan -- 3/8 of an inch is as close and 9/16 away is a little far i hope you get it -- jz

BTW the shaft you have on the old pump is a 400 style you will have to buy a 400 metal sleeve drive shaft for the motor they are diff than the 350 shafts and it wont go in if you try --

if you did not have a high vol pump you could have gotten away with the old shaft and the new plastic sleave but the metal sleave shaft is a better deal anyway -- the pump you have is ok just buy the correct 400 shaft with the metal sleave and check it all out it should be just fine -- jz

and when you get to installing the cam just go to lowes and buy a 4 inch 5/16 -18 bolt and use it as an instalation tool it does the same thing -- screw it in one of the bolt holes and use it as a handel to install cam so you dont bang up the bearings as you turn the cam to install slowly and easy --z

I have 2 oil pumps lined up. I just don't know if they have the new design as some moroso's use it too.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

shaft

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku


BTW

Im way pissed I have to spend over $100 On an oil pump because some d**k wanted to be cheap and use less materials on a new design that used to be good, but now cant even hold up to vtec power..