2pt or 3pt SFC's?
 

Looking for good quality SFC’s and want to know if a 3pt system is better or even worth it as opposed to the 2pt connectors. Looking for the best - as i would love to reduce dash rattle (didnt realize it might help reduce them with SFC's till i started researching - so now i really want them)



http://www.lmperformance.com/18421/14.html

http://www.lmperformance.com/15806/14.html

http://www.lmperformance.com/18835/14.html

2 point connectors help with beaming stiffness. 3 point do beaming stiffness and torsional stiffness. If you have the room underneath (exhausts get in the way) I'd do 3 point.

3pt. also for dash rattles you will want to look into a solid strut tower brace.

Definitely 3 point. You should look into Spohn's tubular ones....very nice. If you're interested in a set let me know....I sell them for 10% off

Im going to say 2 points for a street driven car.

3 point for a auto x/drag car/street car

I disagree about the 2 point, only because our cars need as much support as possible. I've got SLP 3 pt SFC, LG 3-point STB ( the one the hard mounts under the windsheild ), and at 40K miles I still twisted the car enough to dimple the rear quarters with only 330RWHP.

The supports are not going to hurt ride quality so get the most support possible, and weld the SFC in.

from what the guy at UMI says, the 2pt. is all you need, unless youre running a new torque arm, with mounting points for the 3pt.

I had the 3 pt slp ones on my car, but I have since cut the diamond portion out, for a couple reasons. I just got done installing a 10 pt cage, at this point if the car twists, there's something wrong. That, and I needed the clearnace for the dual 3.5 inch exhaust, which is on and tucked up very nicely I might add.

Will the car flex more now, I would like to hope the cage will put a stop to any of that.

I run 3pt. on my V6, but I do autocross and such. If you dont intend on doing any racing, or where the body will flex under imense load, just go with 2pt.

i just ordered a set of UMI 2 pointers for the Z28

i got a 2pt. because i was worried of y-pipe clearance.

Thats a very good point oo, exhaust clearance which I really dont have none now

i got the 3pt's on the way but they havent shipped yet and i ordered them last monday. I just dont see how u can have exhaust problems with them, unless u have some crazy off road X pipe or something like that

http://www.umiperformance.com/images/2004b.jpg

my exhaust doesn't tuck up that high :(

your v6 shouldn't have any issues really. my under-carraige isn't nearly that nice, and my exhaust isn't tucked up as nice.

that pic has an off-road Y pipe. thats probably why it fits. with my TSP catted Y, i doubt a 3pt would fit.

do you have subframes?

not yet. plan on getting probably UMI 2pt. soon.

report back when you do. it will be nice to see if you notice any difference on the autocross track and on the street.

on a side note whats the best way to instal my SFC's when they finally show up to my door. I got a bolt on set (i realize welding them in is stronger) as I plan on another Fbody with some balls and it would be nice to transfer them over. I have read that the suspension needs be loaded, so what I should go buy another set of ramps for my rear tires to rest on too...

I did the mistake of doing one side at a time,which dostorted the body enough for me to turn a half hour job into a 3 hour job. you can raise the car , but make sure it is level all around, cause if the body is distorted a little, it can be a P.I.T.A . Best thing to have is a lift tho, so if you know someone who has one, do it there.

the only important thing is to have the frame loaded, as in the weight of the car on the tires. if its at a shop, make sure they do it on a lift like this:
http://www.hunter.com/pub/product/ra...ages/cover.jpg
and not like this:
http://www.arrowtrading.co.za/data/c...913d063c36.gif

a lift that you can drive onto. thats whats keeping me from doing bolt-ins myself. ill probably end up getting welded ones done. but the front and rear have to be as level as they are when driving. so you cant just use a set of ramps or jack up one side and do it.

i put jack stands under the rear axle, and under the front control arms.... and spohn makes a TQ arm with the crossmember lowered in order to clear larger/long tube exhausts...

pic of my TQ arm/SFC setup....(just no y pipe in pic...)

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5...subframes2.jpg

i got mine yesterday! i read the instructions and they tell u how to do it.... front of the car on ramps..... back of the car on jackstands, bolt everything up loose, jack up the rear and load it, move the jackstands to the rear itself and lower the jack, now go tighten all the bolts up......