gas tank swap?
 

ok i dont know where to put this, but i read on tgo that you can put a 98+ f-body gas tank into 3rd gens no prob, and it gets rid of the charcol thingy in the engine bay and adds 2 more gallons of gas, and it goes rite in. is that true can that be dont and would i have to use a 98+ fuel sending unit would that all work with my factury wireing and such, would it also give me a better reading on gas.

you need the 93-97 sender, i hear the tank swaps pretty much right out.

i would think the straps would be slightly different. mebbe.

keep in mind 98+ pumps are 58psi not 42 like tpi/lt1

And aren't 98 + non return fuel rails?

so it is doable i would just need a sender unit from 93-97 and the tank from a 98+ and starps, but is it worth it in the long run tho.

id say no

Extra capacity, safer design, drops several pounds. Sounds like a winning swap to me

thought you couldnt swap the plastic tank into other gens, could be wrong thats just what ive heard

No, you can swap them into earlier 4th gens and 3rd gens. Don't know about 67-81 though.

- Justin

i think im gunna do it guys thanks for the advance and help.

Given the filler neck is in the back of 67-81 and the side on 82+ I'd say no, not a bolt in. Shape is not similar either. Now if you want to hack it up, sure anything will fit.

Beat me to it.

Correct u whould only need to use one fuel line. the return is in the tank

do i still need to run a line back to the tank too.

no sir

ok but sice i have TPI and there are 2 fuels lines do i just block the one off, the return one.

yes just leave it unhooked the 2nd line in a lsx car is a evap line

Do Not just leave the return line coming from the fuel rail unhooked....

you need to properly cap it off.

Some mis-info in here.
First off the TPI is vacuum referenced for fuel pressure. Seeing as the regulator is in the tank in a 4th gen you may have some fueling issues if you dont get a tune in there afterwards. I plumbed my 4th gen tank with a full return line. Yes the 4th gen is "returnless" but it really is not, the return line is very short and comes from the "T" block right before the fuel filter. So either get a tune (your fuel pressure is going to be VERY high) or run a return from the manifold.
I am not positive but I think the 98 tank is metal where the 99 and up are plastice with the evap on the tank. I have not seen a 98 tank to be sure so I cant say for certian. For the 99 and up tanks the fuel level sender is the wrong ohms, so the gauge would be wrong if you just hook it up. You can buy the correct sender resistor board and swap it in so the gauge reads correct.
The straps for the tank are the same. I used the 4th gen ones only because the guy gave them to me so I painted them nice and put some new foam on before I installed them. Also with the swap you need to cut the filler neck hose slightly, about an inch but you should measure and test fit first. I cut a little too much and the cap sits a little low in the sleeve thing.
If you do a search for my name on thirdgen I have posted in several threads about this swap. In the one thread it has the part number for the resistor board.
I also recommend the Racetronix pump if you want to keep the factory fuel can. I HAD to get the wiring for the pump as they would not sell the pump without the wiring at the time. I had better wiring than they were using for the "upgraded" grounds and such and I didnt want it but I had to get it. If you have stock wiring I would say maybe go for the pump and wiring harness.

This is my quest for the 71 once I start with the sheet metal :twisted:

sounds like a **** ton more work than its worth

see thats not a prob for me because i like to do that kind of stuff, like curritly im building a custom wireing harness so i can have vss in my 88 because i have a t56, but i want to keep it stock looking its a pian but i like it and and helps me understand the car better too.

Actually it isnt much work at all if you use the stock lines. Sender replacement is pretty easy, 10-20 minutes for that, a few minutes to trim the hose on the filler neck, bolts right in like stock, and if you get all the lines up to the "T" block for the return they (if I remember correctly) screw right in too. I went further and used braided stainless hose, that took me a long time, actually that was probably 90% of the work.

lets start a debate...fuel access panel while you're in the area? :lol: