4th Gen K member
 

Is it worth it? A new UMI one goes for 400 ish. I would only be doing the K and retaining stock arms for now. If it is worth it, how hard is it?

Whats wrong with the one in yoyur car now?

Its stock.

unless you ran out of things to spend money on, I wait until

A) you pull he motor or something substantial like that or
b) you arevery concerned with weight reduction and need to shed pounds

Kinda ran out of things to spend money, and UMI has a thanksgiving sale....

put it in the bank

Doesnt look like you ran out of things to spend money on...

It allows you to actually change your spark plugs from the bottom. That's about the only major benefit I've noticed so far with my car :lol:

Seeing is believing. :wink: And I can change plugs in less than a 1/2 hr.

Do you have any pics of yours?

lol wanna do mine?

Stock manifolds? If so, hellll nooo.

get two. i'll take one thanks!

get a real tune instead so that thing can make it down the street

save it and buy a LS1 car :mrgreen:

Thats good advice right there .....

Bah, I like my boat anchor. Opti and everything. I am looking at a BMR K member for 350 delivered, brand new. So its really tempting.

The UMI K-members are vastly stiffer than stock as well as being a substantial weight savings. This means a decrease in cowl shake and a massive improvement in handling.

The K-member is a great mod if you have the coin for it. Personally, I would take care of the rear suspension first since that is lacking a lot more than the front design on 3rd/4th gens.

I have a UMI Chassis Mount Torque Arm(Chromoly of course :D) and the difference is night and day from stock on the gas, on teh brakes, and especially playing around from the center off of corners :drive:

-Tim

Torque arms are expensive :(

cheaper then a whole k member/a arm setup and worth more in terms of usefullness

Don't think about the money. Buy the torque arm, adjustable rear control arms, adjustable panhard bar, K-member, upper and lower control arms, and coilover QA1s. Live large. :nod:

Timmay, shed some more light onto the T/A in your car, whats it set at, and did you get the full length or the cross mount one?

if your buying a k member atleast make sure its the one that can fit twin turbos

Do you still have the stock 10 bolt?

Mine is the shorter design that goes to the chassis. UMI, chromoly construction, adjustable, pinion angle is 0 to the DS.

Whatever brand you look at, getting it off of the transmission. The last thing you need is the car trying to plant and the tranny mount moving all over the place.

The shorter arm is also supposed to react quicker, can't say I normally drive hard enough to test this, but the physics would seem to support it. If you are a masterful driver and can find the limit of thresh hold braking, you may find some rear wheel chatter, but I don't see it as highly likely that any of us here are braking hard enough or from a high enough speed to get that far ahead of the weight transfer of the car.

I think everyone should make a good torque arm their first chassis upgrade. It makes the biggest difference of any chassis part on any 3rd or 4th gen.

-Tim