Best suspension mod to start with for drag set up...
 

Just as the question asks.....as of now i have a completely stock suspension system....what kind of shocks and struts are you guys running...springs.....is a torque arm needed...panhrad bar....control arms...????

Well, the best shocks and springs out there would be whatever brand of drag launch springs, and double adjustable shocks shocks from Afco or QA1 seem to be the hot ticket (they are a bit expensive though).

A torque arm will help, if you don't have the coin for one, at least grab a poly bushing for the tq arm to help eliminate flex.

LCAs (lower control arms) are a very good mod to help plant the rear, and weld-in relocation brackets for them are even better.

An adjustable panhard is a very good idea if your car is lowered, although it won't help you much at the strip....

- Justin

shocks & springs
 

How much do the springs and shocks work together...another words if i spend money on good shocks all around and leave springs alone.....will i see results or do i have to get them both done

You will see results from just the shocks. I would recommend LCAs, then tq. arm, then shocks and springs.....

- Justin

Really??
 

LCA's first...i always thought it would be shocks & spings first....anyway how is the install of LCA's??????

teh lcs'a are held in with 18mm bolts and nuts at each end.
jack the car up, support it by the rear housing. swap one lca at a time.
shouldn't take more than 30mins

later
tim

ok then.....
 

Anyone have any before and after pics of them.......are there LCA to get and which ones to stay away from or does it even make a difference.....

for a drag-car set-up, using stock style parts, i'd start with shocks-a good 90-10 strut up front,with stock springs, QA1- single adj. for rear(if your using a sway-bar) double adj. won't clear, stock springs, rear LCA,panhard bars help alot, torque-arm with adj. ends,it all depends on how far you want to go, and what kind of car do you have, are you just drag racing or street driving, i could help alot, i've did alot of trial and error on parts and spent tons of money doing it, trying not to buying parts your going to replace sooner than you think. i can help you with picking the parts and some part #'s. keep us informed. "stock style suspension,3rd, gen.car, sbc,th400,12bolt,(9.38 @145)JR1.

regardless of what you choose to do in what order i strongly recomend you only change 1 thing at a time. if you get a few passes after each modification you will be able to see how each effected the cars performance.

later
tim

Good advice overall, however they don't make a 90/10 for 4th gens (the original poster has a '95, IIRC). An adjustable shock will be good for the front.

- Justin

Thanks all
 

Thanks for the imput......i was thinking about 90/10's in the front i didn't know they didn't make them......So like the rear are there any adjustables that may be a problem installing....

go to (www.spohn.net), go under parts,then year of your car,suspension,QA1 makes 12way adj. front & rear shock kits. thats the way to go. plus Spohn has all kinds of parts you would be looking for. i'll talk to you later. time for work. JR1.

The best suspension part I have done has to be Subframe connectors.. Next would be Lower control arms, and the 3 rd best thing I have done is TQ arm..

If it is a pure drag set up get those drag springs/struts in there. If it is a street car beware of drag launch springs, they are mushy and designed for the track. after that

LCA's
SFC's
Panhard
Torque Arm

I put the torque arm last because of price but after LCA's and springs it is going to give you the best traction gain, especially if it is a high power car. I strongly Recommend UMI performance, I was skeptical of their stuff due to price but everything I have gotten from them is as good as BMR or Spohn with better fitment then either. Plus their LCA's are BEEFY! But any of those 2 companies build awesome stuff so you can't go wrong.

I wouldnt bother with anything until you put some slicks on it and take it to the track. Stock suspension is pretty damn good in my opinion... My cars not very fast but it goes 1.70 60fts on all stock suspension. If your car is just a 11.00-13.00 kinda car, I wouldnt bother wasting my money on shocks, springs, torque arms, etc. Get some slicks, maybe some LCA's, subframes, and you should be set.

i would avoid rear drag springs at all costs anyway. almost every brand of "drag" spring are split rates. that is no way to make a car come out consistantly.
tire is one of those things that can cut both ways. a good suspension/chassis is and always will be teh way to get teh absolute most out of any combination. it allows you to run less tire and create better et's.
tire on teh other hand costs a lot less. a $300 set of slicks is an easy replacement for a $400 torque arm, $150 control arms, $100 shocks.....yo0u get the idea.
always be careful not to put too much tire on a car though. the rolling resistance of a slick/cheater slick is a lot higher than a drag radial of equal size. that costs a lot of time in the second half of teh track.

later
tim

Just remember 10 bolts are strong!! :roll:

i have seen 10bolts break on stock cars and i have seen them run low 10's in full weight cars. a lot of it depends on the types of abuse the owner is putting on it.

later
tim

And what tranny the car has.. I have broke 3 rear ends and I have a V6!!

Are you on slicks, street radials, or drag radials? Most guys I see breaking 10-bolts are using radials. I'd bet wheel hop from radial-type tires is a bigger killer of 10-bolts than a single hard jolt off the line.

I was on street tires both times at the track When I broke my 1st 2.. The first one was on the 1-2shift when I hit the gass.. I expoded a carrier bearing, next time was off the line I cut a 2.2 60ft and hit the spray in 1st gear and broke a tooth on the ring gear.. that was the past 2 years.. My car was only making 313rwhp and 430rwtq on my stock motor.. Now I broke one back in July on the street.. destroyed another carrier bearing.. Now I have a pretty stout 10 bolt with a eaton posi, 4.10's, moser axles, t/a cover, and main cap studs.. This is the 4th complete rear end in my car in the past 3 years..

Who is building those things for ya? Maybe they aren't getting setup correctly.

- Justin

The 1st 2 were stock rear ends.. the 3rd one had 3.73s.. So I guess the person building them is GM?? 10 bolts are ****** but they are cheap and I can swap out my rear end in about 1 1/2 hour's.. But this new one I dumped a 1000.00 into it and it should hold up to a beating.. I am not holding my breath though..

I'd put money on the fact that if you ran slicks your rear would last longer.

Stock rears are not built to withstand dragstrip abuse. You would be better off spending the money and taking it to a shop that understands what you will be using the car for. They can set a proper preload on the gears that will help prolong the life of the rear.

Good luck with your current setup!

- Justin