How do you bleed hydraulic clutch?
 

its a 84-92 T5 setup with hydraulic linkage(out of a 1988 Iroc Z) I need to change the clutch master, but i havent ever looked into how to bleed the system once its opened. I have brand new master ready and i ahve to pull the inner wheel well to change it so i wanna do it once and do it right, lol.

I was planning to swap it out anyway with the new one, lt1 braided clutch line and LT1 T56 slave cylinder when i swapped in the T56, but since it went now, i MAY install the T56 this week just so its all done at once. I;m just gonna need to find someone thats able to do some custom welding to modify my current T5 crossmember.

Its really simple. i did this on my 98 T/A- get a friend to crack the bleeder valve or pump the pedal. make sure the resivoir is filled. pump the pedal all the way to the floor like 15 times or so. hold it to the floor. have your friend crack the bleeder valve on the slave. once he tightens it, repeat process (pump it up, hold to floor, crack bleeder) pump it up again, and then refill the clutch fluid. repeat process like one more time until str8 fluid is coming out!! good luck!!

try looking into this .. i know its t56 but it should be close to the same principle
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...lutch+bleeding

98tadriver..that would be all well and good, but i didnt say LS1, its a 84-92 style. there is no bleeder valve on the 3rd gen or LT1 slave cylinders.

hmm lemme check that site out..

I know you didnt say that you had a LS1 car, but whaat? no bleeder valve on the slave cylinders?? thats weird.. i thought anything dealing with hydrauilc fluid would have a bleeder valve! :confused:

my 84 has a bleeder on the slave...the clutch setup is the plastic kind with the clear plastic hole

on the slave there is a very small allen screw with no head going into the collar where the plactic hose goes into it...use your normal bleeding procedure to bleed the system

also if your using new slave or master i would suggest bench bleeding them.

hook a hose to where the resivoir hooks to the master and run the hose into a bottle of brake fluid. then run the hose that goes to the slave into the same bottle. pump the master until you start to feel it draw fluid into the master..then when you hook it back up do your best not to have any airbubbles in the line from the resivior going into the master..

once the new parts are in use the normal pump up and hold/while someone cracks the bleeder until no more air or foam comes out of the bleeder

last thing make sure your connections are tight on all lines..if the system can pull air in the whole bleeding process wil take forever and seem to go no where.

also. i would be happy to weld the cross member for you i just have no abality to make cosmetic welds. just strong ones

maybe you have a different one, but there is no bleeder on the slaves i have.

I called a buddy of mine last night, he has a 96 T/A says all that he had to do was pump the pressure up, didnt even bleed it. good luck!!

i have the one peice setup with the clear plastic line..

its just like bleeding the brakes

like i said before, theres no bleeder screw on LT1 style slaves.... so it is NOT like bleeding brakes.