Beefing my Ten bolt, Parts List
 

Alright so I have my list but am verifying here just because I dont want to order the wrong thing ect.

I am going with a Zexel Torsen differential.

Moser 28spline axels

3.42 Zexel Torson ring and pinion

Beefy summit cover (the 7.5 fit my 7.625? like I've seen in pics?)

Solid Bearing spacer

Anyone know a good central jersey shop to get this all put together?

How fast are you going to be going? You may end up in c-clip eliminator zone and then you have other stuff you need to worry about.

The aim in the end is 400ponies at the wheels. Which is what seems to be the limit of a 10bolt from what I've read. Will probably land in the 380-390 range to play it safe. Could you elaborate on your "c clip eliminator zone"?

Sure.

Stock axles are held in by C-Clips which are located on the inside of the carrier. When these go, there is nothing holding your axles in. Some people swear that a disc brake caliper will do so but I've seen instances where this is not so with my own eyes.

C-Clip eliminators allow you to have better axle retention. They mimic Ford 9" housing ends with a bolt on axle clamp (actually, putting Ford style housing ends on a GM axle housing is typically the best way overall) and that way a catistrophic axle failure is not as, well, catastrophic.

In your case you will probably be fine. While the NHRA requires this at 10.99 or faster, I'd do it at 11.99 or faster just to be safe. People who run spools don't even have the option if I remember correctly- they have to use C-Clip Eliminators or Ford Housing ends even if they run 10 minute 1/4s.

What is your budget for this rear build? It looks to me that you may end up close to a 12 bolt (cost wise) anyway...

Aiming for $1000-$1200. If its $150 for some insurance I am more than willing to spring though. I am going to pick up me rusty old 10bolt from Justin this sat hopefully...

i think those covers are a waste of money, Mark Williams, which is considered one of the best in the industry, if not they best when it comes to differentials, doesnt put those style covers on their 12 bolt housings.

For the $100 I'll spend it whether it helps or not.

My own two cents, If your beefing up your rear, take a look at Mikronite.com, theyre based out of NJ, and have a process that apparently strengthens metals, idk if its snake oil, but I looked into it, and I wouldnt see y not to try it. they said its sbout 250 to do ring and pinion gears.

Beefing up a 10 bolt..No such thing.. It just a matter of time and use before it goes BOOM.

I only put out 320 rwhp and My rear was set up nice (welded, High end Motive gears, Girdle) After a year of racing and sticky tires - Boom Plus I had an A4 with stock converter.

I'm getting a 10 Bolt take off with 3.42 gears(brand new) from a friend @ SLP and we both agree even with welding and Girdle it will last about a year or so.

Once you run slicks with the stock 10 bolt you run into trouble. What your doing is good for now. Build it and when it blows up get a moser or a strange 12 bolt.

my stock rear couldnt take 338rwhp 366 rwtq on street tires for too long, it made a nice sound when it broke!


http://thumbs.vidiac.com/82fe6557-b3...bbf7c8924a.jpgClick here to see Video

it is a cryo treating process. hardens the metal by closing up the tiny little pours in the steel. it makes the gears harder, smoother, and reduces operating friction which means less damaging temperature.
a lot of the DIRT guys use them, M2 builds a lot of their engines with treated parts.
it is technology that is getting big in the over the road truck world.

im prob gonna do that to my gears when i get my rear done over the winter. mostly to quiet them down if anything but the extra strength is an added bonus :)

Hey I remember that sound!!! Actually I dont know why but I was able to limp my car home (~1 mile away) that night at like 25 MPH

mikronite is NOT the same thing as cryo treating. there was a magazine article on it that I just read and its actually like very dontrolled shot peening.

How does this affect gear break-in? I know in race cars gear life or noise is not that big a deal (in most cases) so proper break in is not as critical. For street use gears have to be work hardened in their operating environment to live a decent life.

in the article, they used a set of used FMS gears out of a fox body, sent them out and put them back in. they dynoed 7 more HP at the wheels with that change alone.

I have no idea how it would affect break in times though.

I was thinking more along the lines of break in ability... as in can you do this to new gears and then break them in or should you install and break the gears in before sending them away. I'm thinking the latter.

thats a damn good question. you'd probably have to call the mikronite people or the gear manufacturers or both.

its the former... they wont mikronite any type of used metal. well, they can, but its too hard and tedious for them to clean metal first. so yes, you must have them done, and then break in the gears.

I think the best way to beef up a 10 bolt is to get a 12 bolt, BUT if you are intent on doing it I would invest in C-clip eliminators and have someone weld the axle tubes for you. Still isn't great but it should hold 400HP for awhile. The Girdles look good and I bought mine purely for the cover itself (I like satin finishes) but I think the jury is still out on just how much they actually do. Ceratinly doesn't hurt though. I guess I just look at it as you will be more then halfway to a 12 bolt/9 Inch, why not just save the extra money and do it right?

The covers help the 7.5" 10 bolt more than many other rears because of how weak the housing of the 7.5" 10 bolt is. Many other rears have stronger housings that don't deflect under load as easily.

- Justin

im another vote for spend your money once...why buy two rears..just get a 12 bolt or 9in and never worry about it again..

i had my 10 bolt done at a&d auto (732) 367-0116

1350 = enough for a moser 12bolt