Propper way to install a camshaft.
 

Hey guys, Ive gone as far as removing heads and a cam, but i wont be using that motor, and I would like to know the right way to do it, I have no heads, no distributor or anything fyi. I basically want to know how to do it so it doesnt mess any thing up. thanks

matt

Get three long threaded bolts (I think it's 3/8-16 thread, but check to be sure), and screw them into the end of the cam to make a nice handle. Have lots of moly lube on the cam (if it's not a roller), guide it in as straight as possible, and very slowly. DON'T FORCE IT! It will go all the way in; you may have to spin it, or rock it just slightly to get it past the cam bearings.

That's how I do it, or you can spring for a cam install handle if you want to get "fancy".

My cam install handle is an old timing gear. It's easy to hold onto.

- Justin

i shouldve elaborated.

I mean with lining the marks up, and top dead center, I can easily un bolt everything and then just install it, but I need to know the proper way so its done right and doesnt cause problems later on.

Yes, but what everyone is trying to tell you is that FIRST when you remove and install the cam you must be very careful! Go easy, DO NOT FORCE IT. You need to be very gental if you nick the cam or the cam bearing even ever so slightly you run a very good chance of trashing the motor! When removing installing you will need to carefully rotate the cam as it can hang-up on the lobes and bearings. Also when you install it use pleanty of lube on the bearing!
Also keep everything very clean! Any dirt or grit that gets in there can quickly destroy an engine.

Once the cam is installed, you rotage the crank so that the dot on the crank gear is straight up ( 12 o'clock ). The cam is installed with the dot on the cam gear facing straight down ( 6 o'clock ). So both dots need to be exactly pointing at each other. They cannot be off, if one tooth off the engine will not run properly.

When you do this the distributors gets installed with the rotor pointing towards the #1 spark plug which should put you close for you base timing for start up.

JB

he pretty much nailed it ....

on a Chevy small or big block the dots on the cam gear ( 6 O'Clock ) and the crank gear are at ( 12 O'Clock ) the cam is on overlap so dist installed on # 1 will be 180* out ----- set the dist on # 6 ----- or rotate the motor over so the dots are upside down cam gear 12 O'Clock & crank gear 6 O'Clock but many people have told you to get a book ---- u will screw it up dude if you don't -- jz

hmm, most likely your right. I always set valve lash then put the distributor in so i dunno....

all cams are ground so # one - is on TDC with dots in place -- its the way you start to degree the cam with a wheel -- never seen a motor that did not start with # 1 and cam on overlap -- its the way it is --

ah, you are wise in the way of things....8-)

I still have that book.....

:rofl:

Thank you for correcting me. Guess it's been longer then I thought since I actually worked on a engine with a real distributor, too may LT1s I guess?

Wayfast, sorry about my misinformation as well!

many many have ended up with the dist in 180 out as a result of that fact -- didnt want to step on you answer -- but i do this almost every day -- jz

No problem! Glad you caught it before Matt ended up spending an afternoon or late night frustrated cause of me!

John

great info. I learn alot on these forums. So much for spending 20G's on tech school...

I am doing this over 40 years and today i learned something new i did not know before -- the money was not thrown in the air if you use your mind --