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Cam FTW?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku
what do yas think...i think thats the one i'm gonna use |
Are you gonna build it to spin to 6k easily? If you building it for street/strip, then sure. If it's gonna be mostly for street/having fun, go with something that will run better in a lower powerband.
Search the web and see if you can find a desktop dyno flow file for the GenIII FWD aluminum heads, and I'll toss the combo together on desktop dyno for you this evening. - Justin |
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well I am puting the gen III heads and intake on it but it can easily be converted
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that's small lift :lol:
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- Justin |
the RWD 3.4 heads are identical to the 2.8 heads...same flow same valves...they suck...now by changing over to the 2000+ heads they have larger valves and a huge in crease in intake flow...and the exaust flow is even better, accually so much better the stock manifolds can't handle itand 1.25' primary headers are too small. not to mention the aluminum heads are lighter than the cast iron heads and the intake is lighter consrtuction as well...now the only issue with the cam so far is which one, and how streetable. i want it to be perfect for the track but it won't do harm for every day use
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Are you using stock Gen III heads and intake, or worked ones?
- Justin |
stock...91-99 the valve stayed the same size..but for 2000 the increase valve size by a decen amount...and all the 60V6 heads are interchangable, so 2000+ one happen to be the best...a P&P would only yeild a 3hp gain and 1ft/lb torque...so its not worth it to get it done
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A P&P wouldn't be worth a whole lot on an otherwise stock engine (although certainly more than the numbers you listed, if they were done right). But if you are talking about aftermarket cam, with intake and exhaust mods, then it would certainly be worth it. - Justin |
but it comes down to as simple as...can't afford it
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Make sure everything you buy matches up well...... - Justin |
i'll probably do alittle self modding to em
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