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I wanna go faster
well the title says it all lol
right now i have a 4L60E 97 Trans Am with an SLP cold air intake Flowmaster muffler but thats it i wanna know wat u guys think would be the best next step in makin this thing really fly EDIT: i didnt put the flowmaster it was there wen i bought the car and im probly gonna take it off for a better exaust system somewhere down the road |
What is your budget like?
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Headers, Exhaust, Gears, & Tune. That should get you some decent Bolt on power and give the car a nice boost.
Pacesetter Long Tubes are probably your best bang for the buck. I would purchase them coated, and you can go with any of there y-pipes. I run there Off-Road (No Cats) and the install was super easy. Just make sure before you pull your manifolds you soak them in a good solvent like PB blaster, WD40, or Liquid Wrench. For a cat back, I think one of the most popular (and best sounding) for an LT1 is the magnaflow 3" "Wide Open" or just about any 3" cat back will work and make just about the same power. For an Auto you could either go with 3.73's or 4.10's. You could also finally get a mail order tune once you have everything done and that'll help free up some power and help shift your automatic. |
Best seat of the pants upgrade in my opinion was a set of headers...I'd save up and do the whole exhaust at one shot. I'd recommend the Pacesetter coated longtubes with their y-pipe and the catback of your choice.
After that a good plan would be gears, torque converter, and a computer tune(I recommend madz28.com) ALSO, it won't make you any faster but you should look into a transmission cooler to keep that 4l60 alive |
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In addition to what was already replied:
What type of use do you intend for the car? Is it a daily driver, short trips, long hauls or weekend warrior? Is fuel mileage or streetabily an issue? Do you need to keep the car emmissions complient? Need to know this so that we make the right suggestions. |
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and emissions is not a problem |
my ultimate goal is for this car to be able to beat a Z06, i want it to be able to run under a 10.8 and maintain drivability and i have no problem putting performance suspension to make that happen
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10's are big numbers and you def wont get those with just basic bolt ons.
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its a daily driver FOR NOW but down the line wen it starts getting fast enough ill buy a daily beater |
wat do u guys think of the SLP Short Headers?
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- Justin |
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- Justin |
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I'm sure there will be other LT1 guys chiming in here with some good advice for you. - Justin |
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In all seriousness, 10's are a very hard number to reach. Someone that lived down the street from me had a 97 SS, 396 stroker, cam, bolt ons, geared, and a 175 shot and only ran 11.3ish ... Best thing to do to beat a Z06 in a 97 Trans Am is to swap that goddamned LT1 out and chuck in an LSx :lol:
If u want an all out track car that can still be driven on the street, only suggestion is to buy two 12 packs, grab a couple sockets + wrench, screwdrivers, and put that car on a diet... aka Massive Weight Redux :lol: |
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wen i get some serious money i plan to buy a project car to turn into an all out drag car i want either a 70/71 Chevelle or GTO and just drop in a Big Block and go from there but for this car i wanna keep the LT1 and just make it as fast as i can while keeping it drivable |
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To me the options, look into Jethot, Hooker or Kooks. They all have thick flanges where they bolt to the heads and collector flanges. I wanted to keep my car (semi) leagal in PA. I'm running the Jethot Long tubes with emmis. fiitting (fittings are optional). The 3" collectors going into a mufflex built 3" Y-pipe with 3" cats, that merges into a 4" collector and 4" cat back into a 4" in - 4" single out Spintech muffler. It's a tight fit under the car, but I don't think you'll find anything that flows much better then that in a full exhuast, and I still pass E-town noise restrictions? Some of the people here have heard my car and I've only gotten compliments on the sound. For getting into the 10's. I aggree with what the others said ( Other then those that think you need to swap out the LT1 for an LS1 ). :knock: But weight reduction means you can get there with less HP. You're going to need to look into a stroker and a power adder and suspension work. The basic mods I have are in my sig. This is a full street car, no a gutted car! I've retained all the power option, seats, windows, AC, Cruise, stereo etc. Only thing removed was the back seat to make room for the S+W cage floor braces, and the front bumper support for clearance of the 3-core intercooler. And I'm no light weight either at 225lbs. I'd guess car+ drive total about 3800lbs, maybe more? I haven't made any hard passes. I'm using Nitto DR until I upgrade the rear, so I launch just off idle and roll into the boost to keep wheel spin down. I'm running low 12's this way but trapping at 124MPH so low 11s shouldn't be a problem with slicks. And my engine is built to handle allot more boost then I'm making right now! So how's that for a full weight LT1 ??? :helmet: |
jeebus...124mph...thats 10s dude
and to the OP dont waste your time on shorty headers unless you need emissions |
if you want the most immediate gain for your $$$ to get started, get a good stall(think 3600ish), a shift kit, and some 4.10 gears.
then move along to taking care of the chassis prep until you have the cash together to build a mean engine. things like a better rear(12bolt, S60, 9inch), upgraded torque arm, control arms, control arm relo brackets, tubular k-member.........the list goes on and on. the other major decision you have to make is how do you want to be "fast". doyou mean "fast" in terms of drag racing from a stand still? fast through the twisties? a compromise of both? if you really wanna beat up on Z06's in every sense, you will need to spend a lot of time researching your suspension decisions so you can hook good in a straight line and still carry good speed through corners. |
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