Torque Converter
 

what size tq converter would go in my 96 Camaro? im thinking like 3200 since itll still be street driven. any suggestions on brand? and what i should get?

i think 3200-3600 will be perfect for a street-driven LT1, but pamperedz would know much better than i

Need more info. What modifications are done to your engine? What rear axle ratio?

stock 3.23 or 3.42 gears...plus everything else is bone stock.

He's doin the rear main seal and while he's got everything apart he's tossing the stall in it

its gonna be 3.73s eventually and either H/C or just stock ported and a cam. CC503 was suggested by j0n, thanx for chiming in bro

lt1's make power down low so dont over stall the thing.. espically with it being stock otherwise..

Well this is a judgment call. 2800-3200 is a good fit for the street with that cam and 3:73s. I did two motors with GM847 cams. Both autos, one has a 3200 stall and 3:73, other has 3:42 and we will be installing a 3600 stall in a few weeks. (Both are Yank converters, the 3200 is street and the 3600 is race). Will be interesting to compare the two cars? Should have both at the F-body nats in August.

One thing though is that as you go higher on the stall it can make the car start to feel sluggish when your down low in the RPM before you get into the cam's power range and the converter is locked. Some love the bigger converter, other hate it.

Probably the most used brands that I'm familiar with are Yank or Vigilante. There seems to be mixed reviews about the Fudd converters when used on 4th gens. With either you want to make sure you specify it's for Street and N/A.

Also, installing a quality trans cooler should be on your list as well.

Curious why the 503? = emissions?

not worried about emission at all but that is what was suggested to me. i know j0n knows his LT1s fairly well. its getting tagged in TN which has no state inspection so im not worried about anything

and i believe ill be spraying it eventually. whats the difference between converters for N/A and N2O cars?

Anti-Ballooning plate I believe.

would that hurt it if i ran on with the anti ballooning plate but didnt have nitrous?

and what size converter do i have to run or what difference does it make? like how many inches? and how many spline?

Most of the 2800-3600 stalls will be 9.5" units. The vendor will adjust the stall based on what you tell them. In addition to ballooning plates they "somehow" adjust for the engagement. I'm not sure how, I know Fred's car doesn't flash as high N/A as it does when he leaves on the nitris. The converter was built to flash to X on nitris, which it does. So somehow it reacts to the amount of power being put to it.

That sounds like a good cam that will work well for around a 100 shot of nitris.
Remember when you port the heads to open up the exhaust. Nitris likes lots of room for the extra exhaust gassses to exit!

JB

so i should just call a vendor to see what they recommend then i guess. im probably going to get around a 3000 since it will be street driven. what type of lock up should i get?

i woudl stick tot he 3000 rpm range. with LT1's it seems like once you get more than a little past that the gains become more and more minimal so it isn't rally worth it.
i woudl suggest you get a good sized cooler to help the factory one along. higher stalls mean more temp generated that can shorten trans life. an off the shelf cooler from the local parts store or from whatever catalog you like to use will be fine.

decided im gonna go with a Vig 3200. Rob has had 2 and has been happy with both so im gonna go with his advice