Is this engine worth it?
 

i wanted to know just how fast this engine really would be and if it is worth the money

http://www.golenengineservice.com/html/lt1_lt4.html

its the third one from the bottom the 396ci

i wanna know the real horsepower upgrade over a stock LT1 because i believe the measurements it gives are flywheel and i want to know the rear wheel horsepower it has and dont know how to convert it i just know that its less than flywheel

It looks like a decent deal for a crate motor. Why do you care about fly vs. rear wheel?

i usually just figure 10-15% loss going from flywheel to rear wheels. But the drivetrain has a lot to do with it. Who cares really anyways.

Stock LT1s were rated at 275-285HP depending in the year. Few stockers I've seen dyno'd ranged from 245-27RWHP.

Rule of thumb is 10% loss on a manual and 12% for auto.

The numbers their posting seem about right for crank HP with those mods.

Just remember you need the stuff not included to support the HP, Fuel pump(s), injectors, tuning etc.

i always heard it was 20%, not 10-12......?

i read somewhere that it was 18-25%

also i wanted to know because i thought the 295hp rating on the stock 97 LT1s was rwhp and i wanted to know the rwhp rating on the crate motor to better compare them

20% loss.... flywheel to wheels

tx for the responses i just have one more question

thats just a stroked LT1 right?

so if i was to buy any aftermarket parts i would still buy the same ones i would be buying for the regular LT1 right?

EDIT: also do any of you think the 383 supercharger block would be a better than the 396 block?

I've heard mixed results with Golen....

Musclecarjohn?

As for the flywheel to rear wheel- anywhere from 10% to 25%. It all depends on your setup.

All synthetic fluid, muncie trans, 10 bolt? On the lower side.
All organic fluid, race built TH400 and 9"? On the high side.

You can't go by manual vs. auto since not all transmissions of the same type have the same loss. Same with rear axles.

Go by flywheel hp for your motor and then worry about losses later.

A 396 LT1 is an LT1 w/ a .030 overbore and a 3.875 stroke crank. Any aftermarket parts for an LT1 will work, but you should try to match for the increased cubes of the 396, as in larger primary tube headers, larger injectors, bigger throttle body, etc.
The 383 supercharger block would be better if you are running a supercharger...:mrgreen:

so the 383 with a supercharger would be better than a 396 with a supercharger?

The Golan 383 for a supercharged application has 9.25:1 compression and a cam w/ a 115 degree lobe separation. The 396 has 11.5:1 compression and a cam w/ a 112 degree lobe separation. The 396 is built to make N/A power, and the 383 is built to make power with a supercharger. The 396 would have to be reconfigured w/ lower compression and a different cam to be effective w/ a supercharger. It really comes down to apples and oranges. Some people swear by 383s, some people prefer 396s. In a N/A application I believe in the old saying that there is no substitution for cubic inches. :)

tx for the advice

No prolly. :) And just for the record, I have a 396 LT1 in the works. And I've only been at it since 1999! lol

wow lol well good luck with that :mrgreen:

Thanx. Looking for 750 hp N/A doesn't come quick or easy. :)

u building it urself from a stock LT1 or geting a 396 from somewhere?

It's kinda a long story...I used to have a 94 25th Ann T/A, and I wanted to do a "killer" engine for it. In 1999 I hooked up w/ a guy in Vegas who had put togther a 396 LT1 with what was then basically an experimental set of heads made by a guy named Russ Arao. The heads are 4 valve per cylinder, but still use pushrods to actuate the valves. Here is the website for the heads if ya wanna take a look. http://www.araoengineering.com/Chevy/chevysmb.htm
Anywho, the guy in Vegas decided to sell the engine, and I bought it all torn down. I was going to build the engine for the 94 T/A, and along the way I had some massive machine work done to the block, such as adding a main stud girdle, a piston oiling system, deck plugs, totally blueprinting the block. etc. But I ran outa bux, and ended up selling the T/A. But I held on to the engine, since it was a work in progress, and I knew there wouldn't be much interest in an unproven combination. Everything kinda sat for a while, until I met an engine builder named Bret Bauer a few years back. Bret is a very progressive guy, and he is basically doing an R&D job on the engine, reworking what needs to be worked and solving whatever problems may arise. Once the combo is all sorted out I'm going to install the engine in my 73 AMX, and hopefully have a very unique and bad azz machine. :)

sounds interesting, lookin forward to hearin how that works out wen its done be sure to post about it :nod:

Don't worry, my big mouth will be blabbing all over creation about it. lol :mrgreen:

horse power is a by product of torque -- the faster in real time a motor can spin up on a dyno or in a real car is what its all about -- jz