010 blocks
 

Guys,

I saw some posting on in another section and thought I'd mention this.

It's not the casting number (39700010) that makes a high nickel block. It's the numbers under the timing cover that determine the tin and nickel content. If you look under there you will see an 010 or 020 cast into the block. If it's not there then you have a standard block.

I have 010 stamped on the side of the block under the driver side exhaust manifold.

I knew that. I also know my 39700010 block is an 010 4-bolt main. :)

hey bill their is also an oil line plug in the front right side just under the intake front rail < that most certainly is a high nickel block as well they were for jersey skiffs in the ocean and < rusted less than the others - also the roundly guys would buy one in a minuet as they all felt they were thicker than the rest -- jz

Mine has the oil plug on the RF as well.

and i forgot that the rear top of the block has a bolt hole that is threaded just like the other normal 6 on every block but the alloy trans cases dont have the hole, only the cast iron ones have the 7th hole for bolting hahahahahhhah - jz

So is mine, got it for a bonus from my boss :-P

Any idea what the blocks are worth? Have 3 of them in my garage. One is built and the others i am hanging onto for later projects. Also, should the block only have one casting on it? The block I just looked at had both numbers stamped behind the timing cover 010 and 020.

010/020 blocks are the most sought after since they have both tin and nickel added. On the 010/020 blocks look for 2482 on the center caps as those are the GM performance caps.


Probably $150-250. Regular 010s are around $100-125 from what I've seen.

Thanks for the info. The caps do not have the 2482 casting on them, I am not sure about my other block though. Will have to check that one as well.

You can do fine on a good tune, 010 or not.... even a 2 bolt main can take up to $500 HP...

but can't stand up to revving as high as a 4 bolt

I always thought the top end gave up 1st in high rpm issues...anyone who spends big $$ for a high rpm top end sure has the $$ for a solid bottom.

provided you are smart enough to do so, and/or have the presence of mind. wouldn't want a rod bolt coming loose :rofl:

I guess my engine should have been split in half a long time ago then HUH??.. All I have is the original two bolt block from 88 in the IROC and I dont think I need to repost what kind of power it makes..

ARP studded at least?

I didn't say you couldn't run a 2 bolt like that, but have you rebuilt yours? I'm sure a rebuilt 2 bolt could handle a lot of power. but would you disagree that untouched, a 4 bolt would be better off if the top end was beefed up?

Nah, I used ARP Main bolts

Until you start making serious torque and rpm's the difference in two to four bolt is 0. If you spin the thing hard enough to actually need a stronger clamp on the crank then you are still better off with a two bolt block and having billet splayed caps installed.

never really thought of it like that, but once you get into that kinda power range wouldn't you be better off with a 4bolt with after market caps and bolts? I'm not trying to say your wrong I'm just using this as an opportunity to decide on something.

JS or JZ can confirm or deny this, but my understanding of the situation is that splayed bolts are better because they aren't all pulling in the same direction. The outer bolts pull from the side walls and not the main web.

wild bill, that is basiclly how it works.

their are many who have debated the question about straight or splayed bolts in crank area as well as cross bolting < ( bolted from the side of the block into crank area ) another play for retention not used that often < pricey for sure --- and for my money today its a world block < soft to bore and hone < like a Bo tie - OR - dart block Hard like a 440 dodge block < now what one is better depends on many = many different things but LS blocks are on the soft side if that helps - and i always liked spalyed bolting and i have never seen any cap bouncing < Marks can be seen under a main cap from floating around with most race motors ) with that set up NEVER - just my take - jz

I've heard that most of the time a 2 bolt or 4 bolt block will be fine with quality fasteners, unless you're building something with a stupid amount of power. thats when the splayed caps come into play because the outer bolts tie into a part of the block that has a lot more metal than the main webbing. but if you're making enough power to need splayed main caps, you'd probably be better off going with an aftermarket block all together.

gen III blocks (LS1 and such) are six bolt blocks. regular 4 bolts in from the bottom and two bolts in from the sides. badass straight from the factory! :lol: