here's my scenario
 

the rear in the TA is a lil more then moist on the outside so im assuming it needs a new seal. While its open, why not throw some 3:42's in there (stupid 2:73's stock!). That leads into needing to get the computer tuned. While getting the Computer tuned, id like to get the EGR and maybe AIR tuned out.... lol

so my question is, with no EGR and AIR and a proper tune will it pass inspection when the OBD2 is plugged it?

Also if i do the rear and computer now and wait to remove the actual EGR and AIR assemblys until its warmer out, will it matter?

if you have cats for the visual, and a proper tune to not have codes, you will pass inspection.

and i dont see why you couldnt tune them out but not actually remove them yet

You don't need to disassemble the rear to replace the pinion seal...

cuz its a reason to modify :) !!!!

and thanks mike, thats wat i wanted to hear! lol

The rear can be swapped and the tuning taken care of for the changes you want to make the the EGR and AIR systems all at once. If the systems are there and turned off, it will be no different than if you had removed them and tuned them out, they will just sit there and the computer will act like they do not exist.

A 3600 converter and 2.73's does really well...

3600 and 3.42's would work better. lol

For stop light racing, the 3600 and 2.73s are surprisingly good on the street, especially if you run street tires. You can roll easily into the throttle and get a solid launch. If you do rolling punches to say 110 - 120 mph, 3.73s are a blast. 3.73s will go up in smoke if you don't watch your launch. If you want off the line performance with 3.73 + a stall, you really want to keep sticky tires on the back.
Do the stall and keep the gears for now. Drive it for 3 - 6 months and then reevaluate the need for gears.

Yea as long as you have cats and u have it tunes out correctly i dont see a problem.

Maybe so but I would waste the money on a stall converter w/ 273's

I have the stock 3.23s and a 3400(ish?) stall in mine, blast to drive. Granted you can't launch at anything higher than 2k, but still a lot of fun.

Why I say this is: If you spend the money and the gears and install... you still have the stock 7.5" ten bolt... why not try the stall with current gear and then SAVE up for a 9" or 12 bolt?

A stock cam runs out of power at about 6,000 RPM, with 3.73s its really too much... 3.23's work well, as does 3.42's.

If u wanna waste money soo bad save up and get a complete rear from moser or strange and have the rear custom built to ur specs. these rears are usually 12-bolts and get the reinforced cover for it too. I have personally bought a strange unit and had it built and it works fine and has a bigger ring gear so it won,t blow apart.

A complete 3.42 10bolt can easily be picked up for $300 or less, why would a $2k+ 12bolt be a part of the same conversation?

You do that 3.42 stock rear end 2 or three times and it adds up.

Not saying it is a permanent solution, just thinking that if the $2k+ was there to just drop a 12bolt or similar in the car, this would have been a much different gearing thread. Something more along the lines of "What gears should I order?" kind of thing. lol

if u r gonna take time 2 do something, build it right the first time.

If you are gonna take the time to do something, do it the best you can afford. Yes, ultimately spending nearly 10 times the money would be a wonderful solution, but it isn't one that everyone can afford.

I understand what your saying...it make sence.