What tires for stock 10 bolt?
 

I'm looking to go to the track this summer and I wanted to pick up a set of DR's but I've been hearing too many horror stories about people blowing their stock 10 bolts. All my mods are in my sig, just little bolt-ons so I'm not producing much more hp than stock. I've heard a quick mod is to weld the axle tubes to the center case but that will only help a little. Right now I have hankook all seasons on, I'm not sure what to do at this point in terms of reinforcing the 10 bolt or just not getting DR's. Any suggestions for my current setup?

i broke 2 on stock tires the car rolled off the showroom floor with, and people have many runs on drag radials........there is no right answer

You could also look into the TA covers for the diff. Should help a bit.

But IMO its a waste of money, its going to break, so save money for a 12 bolt etc instead of wasting money on something bound to fail.

I've run 315 street tires and MT ET streets... making more power then most on a ten bolt...

sounds like its a toss up, i think i'm just gonna get the axle tubes welded for now, maybe some 555r's or good summer tires so its not too hard on it and pray it lasts a couple runs for this summer

its not the axle tubes, the housing itself flexes

Some random stuff if you decide to make a project out of it.
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/a...101/theory.jpg

The flex Mike was talking about.

And here ya go.
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/a...1/DSCN2052.jpg
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/a...1/DSCN2048.jpg

Not that expensive if you know how to weld.

That drawing is stupid. The control arms are by the wheels.

yeah.....the solid length of metal that is the tq arm and control arms will keep it from getting as exaggerated as that picture.

Yes, and the force from the wheels will push the inner parts backwards since the ends are secured as you pointed out, by the control arms. So the weak part is the center and the gears separate and then shred each other.

the tq arm supports the center...i can see vertical flex more than front to back

The torque arm does not prevent the whole center section from flexing backwards does it?

the only amout it would allow it to move would be the play in the bushing at the front, its bolted to the rear so you cant really stretch the steel

thats what i was thinking mike. even still, i think the mount would flex before the rear

so the welding is not really necessary is what your saying? and which diff cover is that in the pics? i can't read it

welding wont solve the problem

Run stock 2.73s and ****** tires, problem solved.

The stock torque arm can slide in the bushing in the front, there are no bolts holding it in place. An aftermarket torque arm that is bolted in at both ends will negate this effect, but a stock arm will easily slide forward or backwards in that bushing with a good amount of force acting on it.

- Justin

D.O.T. slicks reinforced rear cover. Ran street class for 6 years with that set-up. 26.0x9x15 size on the slicks. more sidewall will help take the hit at the throttle and cushion the launch. not sayin its gospel but just throwing out a suggestion, before all u jerk-offs start sayin ****.

who you calling a jerk off? i didnt know everyone on this site were such.

anyway, some people get luckier than others. the more shock you run through your drivetrain, the more likely its going to break. I know people that ran 4.10s with the stronger cover on mickey thompson DRs, and it held together for a year of persistent track days. I also know of people that break them with daily driving.

Switch to a V6. Low torque and no chance of breaking things!

g

There is a force that is exerted by the tires which is absorbed and applied to the lower control arms right next to the tire. Thus, no force is exerted on the carrier. If you are thinking that the point in where the lower control arm shackel is affixed to the axle tube is acting as a fulcrum point and that the forward force of the tire is causing the axle to act as a lever pushing the splined end of the axle to the opposite direction, this would be possible of the lower control arms were in the middle of the axle tubes acting like a see-saw. This is not true because the lower control arms are mounted within close proximity of the axle bearing. The torque arm slides freely in the bushing affixed to tranmission allowing the torque arm to slide in and out as the rear suspension goes up and down.

I do not agree, no matter how short the distance is off the fulcrum, if a force is applied, an opposite force will occur. Now whether that force is much, is debatable, however, its there.

It all depends on where the axle bearings are located in proximity of the LCA's, if they are equal there will be no force... 0

I believe the are offset by an inch or two but would not warrent mucg force at all, certinly not worthy of all that welding and trouble

heres a simple calculator

http://www.engineersedge.com/calcula...e_levers_1.htm

Yea but since it is not a solid shaft connecting the two wheels, it will flex at the joint, no way around that.