EGR Valve??? help
 

Hey my cars running horrible. i was told it might be my egr valve because when im stoped it feels like its going to stall but i doesnt and it stinks a little bit. my question is where can i find it on my car. Its a 95 z28 .

its on the back of the intake manifold on the driver side. there are two 13 or 14mm nuts that hold it on and a vacuum line that plugs into the top.

http://shbox.com/1/egr1.jpg

be conscious of the gasket too

http://www.shbox.com/1/EGR_service.jpg

check engine light lit? what does it smell like?

Don't need that, just put an EGR block plate in!

I 2nd that notion !!!

And fail NOX! Great idea!

Guessing can get expensive, maybe take it somewhere to have it checked. That solenoid can go bad too.

Yea, would be much more of a hassle to delete it, would mean codes to be deleted, and praying you would pass...

If it is the EGR, wait for the engine to be cool and then take a morning to replace.

But, erm, 1995 fbod, stumbling at idle, smells like fuel, sounds like you distributor. Are any codes being thrown ? Is this all the time, or only when hot?

When was the last tune up?

currently, NOx is not checked on NJ state inspections. they no longer do the dyno testing, just a 2500/idle test. it would pass the emissions test but technically would fail for the visual/tampering....if the inspector can find it :wink:

this or i was thinking possibly if the cat let go, it gives a rotten egg smell. i dono we need moooar info!

yea, Bonzo for the fail on that one.

Mooar info would help a lot.

When did they stop testing for nox? Huh.

OBDI testing changed this year. Adam knows more, but yea no moaar dyno.

they did nox pre-dyno.

april 1st. currently we are in a new program with no new equipment :lol:

they stopped dyno testing though (thousands of dollars for nothing :-x) so you can't test for NOx with the current equipment as it stands.

supposedly decemberish we will see the new machines....HA!

interesting. will the new machines go back to it? Like I said pre-dyno we tested for it.

onto the actual subject regarding the EGR !!!
you can see if the egr is bad once it is out.
look in the opening of egr and you should see a piece of carbon (black rocklike thing) stuck between the opening of valve and seat.
pick it out w/ a pik or screwdriver and reinstall. problem should be gone. but i do suggeest to replace cause once it happens it will happen again.
you also can pull vacuum on the hose by sucking on it to see if the valve/diafram opens to check it

i do not know for certain but i would imagine so. i vaguely remember the old inspection machine :shock:

First, double check that the PCV is working properly. Also you might want to clean the ICM. That little $5 PCV can really mess with how the car runs. Idle controls get clogged over time, and also check for any cracked vacuum hoses before you start looking at the EGR.

Next, with the engine cooled off, reach back ( not easy to do ) and depress the plunger/diaphram about 5-6 times and see if it's sticking or returns freely (Carbon build up and also keep it from sealing).

Next, the EGR is controlled by a solenoid located on the back of the drivers side intake - can be seen in the pick that was posted - Unplug the hose from the intake to the solenoid and plug the line ( a golf Tee fits nicely ). Then drive the car if it runs/idles better ( and will eventually throw a code ) then the EGR is the problem. If the EGR is sticking sometimes this will keep it closed?

Not uncommon for the various ports get clogged, you might want to Seafoam the engine, or remove the EGR and clean it. If not you have to remove the intake to really get it all cleaned our - or go the block off plate.

The EGR valve is only opened at certain throttle % or MPH, typically at crusing speeds and it lowers cylinder temps. If you use the car for long distance driving at constant highway speed you should probably keep the EGR to help with the longevity of the engine