Fuel Pump Install LS1 Style
 

I got a the 255 pump from the group purchase and installed it. The hardest part about dropping the tank was removing the catback. I only had the car raised about a foot, and had the rear unloaded to pull the tank. There is a 10mm bolt that holds the tank neck in. You can get the bolt out by going through the wheel well. You will also need to drop the upper and lower panhard bar. However, once I got into the pump assembly, there was a little more to be done than I expected.

For the LS1 guys, I found this install document to be very helpful. You will have to cut the rubber boot that the stock pump fits in, and cut holes in the plastic pump housing...I used a dremel. The wiring harness I got with the pump did not fit and I had to cut and solder wires to make the pump work. If you run into the same problem, the harness connectors are labeled "A" and "B" so you can match up the wires.

I also installed a plug and play pump hotwire kit from NewEraPerformance which can be connected to the battery or to the alternator. It was very easy to install.

I noticed the pump is very loud compared to the stock one. When the car is warmed up and at idle, you can hear the pump over the exhaust. Just something to look out for.

The whole install took about 2.5 hrs. It would have been shorter if the wiring harness matched up, and I had to find this install document half way through. Goodluck to the rest of the people who are installing them.

Did you run your pump off the batter or alternator?

I ran it to the alternator, thats probably why it is so loud.

Why not just to the battery a foot or so away from it?

more load the cable feeding the battery has to carry then

Huh?

If he ran the wire to the battery, it would be a few feet versus 10 feet...

Running a load wire right off the alt? And you think that is why the pump is loud? Good lord. Refresh my memory, isn't there 1 or 2 nice distribution points you can use to feed the lead?

and in turn the battery lead to the alternator will have to carry more amps on whatever gauge he has. maybe its too small?

edit: bonzo, http://www.racetronix.com/RX-FLT1-FPKG-2.html just for an fyi this is how most hotwire kits do it

While true.. he has a like a 0 gauge wire, I think it would be fine.

And Bonzo, thats a graduating engineer, he knows stuff. LOL

To clear things up:

I have an optima mounted in the trunk with 1 ga. running to the front, which could easily handle the extra load. I chose to mount it to the alternator mostly because the length of wire was already supplied in the kit and I would not have to rig another mess of connections into the battery box. I am also setup to mount the battery in the front, and it would suck to have to move the hot line going to the pump if I move the battery.

makes sense

Mounting to the alternator is ideal. Less load on the batt and more consistent voltage

You dont want to load the atlernator like that. Too much load on the alternator will surely kill it! The voltage is not more consistant from the alternator. The alt has a voltage regulator built into it and will change its charge rate to suite the load being put on the battery. The battery not only powers all of the electronics in the car, it also acts as an electrical buffer. Capacitors do the same buffering job in a heavy hitting sound system. You will never find a GM wiring schematic where the atlernator directly powers anything in the car.

so your car runs good with the new pump taylor... there might be hope for me and adam after all hahaha... good job man... now get that cam and stall in!!!!!!!!!

so far it runs good, I drove it 2 hrs back to school and around town today without a problem

I was thinking along those lines too. There is a reason GM does not wire anything like that.

well the alternator lead is connected to the battery via throughbolt which also connects the starter wire and the junction block lead IIRC so it really isn't too far off.